--===============7846045884059198146==
Content-Language: en-US
boundary="_000_MWHPR11MB1486E74A76BC2290956C8074B5420MWHPR11MB1486namp_"
--_000_MWHPR11MB1486E74A76BC2290956C8074B5420MWHPR11MB1486namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Had my 100 die suddenly one night.....source of the shut down was a short i=
n the dip switch !!!
Omitting the sordid details of what happened that night, it started right u=
p when I switched to the high beam.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request=
@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 11:00 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 92
Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
healeys@autox.team.net
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
healeys-request@autox.team.net
You can reach the person managing the list at
healeys-owner@autox.team.net
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Car dies suddenly (simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com)
2. Re: Car dies suddenly (Elton Schulz)
3. Re: Car dies suddenly (Bluehealey)
4. Re: Car dies suddenly (skip saunders)
5. Re: Gearbox Noise (Charles Schott)
6. Re: Car dies suddenly (Michael Salter)
7. Re: Car dies suddenly (Michael Oritt)
8. Re: Car dies suddenly (i erbs)
9. Re: Car dies suddenly (Engl)
10. Re: Car dies suddenly (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
11. sudden stop (=3D?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=3D)
12. Re: Gearbox Noise (Michael Salter)
13. Re: Car dies suddenly (Jonathan Einhorn)
14. Re: Car dies suddenly (Tom Felts)
15. Re: Gearbox Noise (Chris Dimmock)
16. Re: Car dies suddenly (simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com)
17. Re: Gearbox Noise (Bruce Steele)
18. Re: Car dies suddenly (Bob Spidell)
19. Re: Gearbox Noise (Mark J Bradakis)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:49:13 -0000
From: <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Austin Healey'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do =
100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endles=
s tears.
Or is it a black/white wire?
Worth a look.
Simon
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To my =
surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A b=
it perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was =
paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about=
1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off =
the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seeme=
d fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the c=
oil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the harn=
ess/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem =
did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fue=
l delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mou=
nted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pumps =
as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway s=
peeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? positio=
n it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudden=
ly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing wi=
th a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system =
or to the primary wires that run to it.
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contac=
t, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling =
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the =
positive coil terminal.
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the =
engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conc=
lude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it se=
em tight and intact.
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues what=
ever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any w=
ork related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/2f740cc8=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:07:10 -0400
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Michael,
Could it be the battery cutoff switch in the trunk or the black/white
wire from that switch to the distributor?
Elton
On 3/19/2019 1:45 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles
> the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or
> missing leading up to it---the car simply died. I coasted to the side
> of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I
> pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately,
> revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive
> on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The
> car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it
> died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped
> the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed
> fine---all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from
> the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight
> and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
>
>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car,
> turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car
> started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for
> my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without any further
> event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to
> verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed
> SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver's seat
> which allows me to switch between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump
> off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on
> either pump and when I selected the "off" position it slowly lost
> power as I expected it to---but in no way like it had suddenly twice
> died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a
> fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system
> or to the primary wires that run to it.
>
>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The
> car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which
> has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I
> removed the distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at
> least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as
> was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory
> specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power
> source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC
> to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil
> terminal.
>
>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in
> place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition
> switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil
> pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out
> because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light
> immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch
> itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove
> the ignition key switch the wires to and from it seem tight and intact.
>
>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don't know where
> to start any further tests, etc. I also don't want to simply wait for
> the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150
> miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last
> week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All
> suggestions/questions welcome....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz=
@frontiernet.net
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/a83c7d41=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 21:36:30 +0000
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved =
by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - whi=
ch can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.
Keep us all in the loop.
Bluehealey.com
Alan - from my iPad
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the c=
ar suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading=
up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after =
about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To m=
y surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A=
bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I wa=
s paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for abo=
ut 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut of=
f the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything see=
med fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the=
coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the ha=
rness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
>
>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned=
on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right =
up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, abou=
t ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the proble=
m did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a f=
uel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch m=
ounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pump=
s as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway=
speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? posit=
ion it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudd=
enly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing =
with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition syste=
m or to the primary wires that run to it.
>
>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car=
has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been i=
n place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the dist=
ributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The inter=
ior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon cont=
act, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor i=
n the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idlin=
g I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at th=
e positive coil terminal.
>
>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in plac=
e of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch th=
rough a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sen=
der line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when th=
e engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I co=
nclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. An=
d though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it =
seem tight and intact.
>
>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without find=
ing something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start =
any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to h=
appen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues wh=
atever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any=
work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehea=
ley@gmail.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/db83bfe8=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:41:51 -0400
From: "skip saunders" <tfsbj7@gmail.com>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Austin Healey'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Many years ago, I had the exact same experience. It turned out to be a fa=
ulty ignition key switch. When jouncing around the weight of the key (and=
associated other keys) would seem to move the switch ever so slightly. I=
did an autopsy on the switch?.turned out to be extremely robust plastic/ba=
kelite but very flimsy metal innards. I replaced the switch with a GM swi=
tch (this was many many years ago?.before concourse was even a thought in m=
y head) and drove the car for another 50-60k miles?.
Best Wishes
-skip-
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael =
Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 1:46 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To my =
surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A b=
it perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was =
paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about=
1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off =
the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seeme=
d fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the c=
oil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the harn=
ess/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem =
did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fue=
l delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mou=
nted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pumps =
as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway s=
peeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? positio=
n it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudden=
ly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing wi=
th a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system =
or to the primary wires that run to it.
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contac=
t, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling =
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the =
positive coil terminal.
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the =
engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conc=
lude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it se=
em tight and intact.
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues what=
ever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any w=
ork related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/4f248849=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 19:25:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net>
To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
Message-ID:
<189186061.2815522.1553037914250.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it tomorro=
w.
Regards,
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 10:56:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
How to get it back in! Been there. Done that.
(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Schott
To: Tom
Cc: Healey Mail List
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
<blockquote>
I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overd=
rive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at=
all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and =
now it's not working
<blockquote>
at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm plan=
ning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.
</blockquote>
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What shou=
ld I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.
Regards,
Charlie Schott
<blockquote>
_______________________________________________
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
94@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
gmail.com
</blockquote>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
nology.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
tts@earthlink.net
</blockquote>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
nology.net
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/e7f94ed4=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 14:34:19 +1300
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
To: simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Message-ID:
<CAB3i7LKjePQjA-pNp4SOsMMTAVpJ_iMQmNzzkEOKEXupJSJDuQ@mail.gmail.com=
>
Hi Michael,
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it
might well be worth checking.
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil.
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly
dying.
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver
which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually
okay ... it wasn't.
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by
installing a replacement.
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was
confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then
finding that the engine started immediately.
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine
to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil
can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
M
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..
>
> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? D=
o
> 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused
> endless tears.
>
> Or is it a black/white wire?
>
> Worth a look.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Oritt
> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
>
>
>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing
> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road a=
nd
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idl=
ed
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and r=
an
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition
> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place =
as
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coi=
l
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seeme=
d
> fine.
>
>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a
> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected
> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated =
I
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
>
>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been =
in
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carb=
on
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engin=
e
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of =
it
> and at the positive coil terminal.
>
>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in plac=
e
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times wh=
en
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which =
I
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem=
.
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from
> it seem tight and intact.
>
>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to
> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with =
no
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All
> suggestions/questions welcome?.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/e94ca7c5=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 22:07:21 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Message-ID:
<CAPTa0B56QVtJUgiAtx1ZgQ3bVGohaY9tYjpm7QdBbQJmwsoy6Q@mail.gmail.com=
>
Hi Michael--
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event
that happened last week.
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts,
so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually
find the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing
connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing
disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll
start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch
and see if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start
on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) ,
has no condenser.
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Hi Michael,
> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it
> might well be worth checking.
> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil=
.
> Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly
> dying.
> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a
> significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriv=
er
> which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actual=
ly
> okay ... it wasn't.
> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by
> installing a replacement.
> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which wa=
s
> confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then
> finding that the engine started immediately.
> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine
> to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil
> can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
>
> M
>
> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote=
:
>
>> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..
>>
>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot?
>> Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused
>> endless tears.
>>
>> Or is it a black/white wire?
>>
>> Worth a look.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
>> Oritt
>> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46
>> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
>>
>>
>>
>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the
>> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing
>> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road =
and
>> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start
>> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and id=
led
>> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen
>> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and =
ran
>> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as
>> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition
>> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place=
as
>> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the co=
il
>> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seem=
ed
>> fine.
>>
>>
>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turne=
d
>> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started righ=
t
>> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,
>> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the
>> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this wa=
s
>> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to =
a
>> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch
>> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the
>> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selecte=
d
>> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no wa=
y
>> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated=
I
>> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to
>> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
>>
>>
>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The ca=
r
>> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been=
in
>> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the
>> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. Th=
e
>> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, car=
bon
>> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast
>> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engi=
ne
>> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of=
it
>> and at the positive coil terminal.
>>
>>
>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in
>> place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition
>> switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressu=
re
>> gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both
>> times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on,
>> from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source =
of
>> the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wir=
es
>> to and from it seem tight and intact.
>>
>>
>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without
>> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to
>> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the
>> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with=
no
>> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not
>> performed any work related to the ignition system. All
>> suggestions/questions welcome?.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>
>>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/b763dbdc=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 19:29:21 -0700
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Message-ID:
<CABXhz88U7SBUYAKq8TfFrP8sOR=3DkMEXeVKspjeNJnbvaoKfoRg@mail.gmail.c=
om>
I'm with everyone else. bypass the battery cut off switch and see if that
fixes the problem.
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
_______ _______
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
(_________________________)
BT7 engine and disk brakes
1967 MGB [image: MG]
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 1:48 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing
> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road a=
nd
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idl=
ed
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and r=
an
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition
> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place =
as
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coi=
l
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seeme=
d
> fine.
>
>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a
> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected
> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated =
I
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
>
>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been =
in
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carb=
on
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engin=
e
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of =
it
> and at the positive coil terminal.
>
>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in plac=
e
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times wh=
en
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which =
I
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem=
.
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from
> it seem tight and intact.
>
>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to
> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with =
no
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All
> suggestions/questions welcome?.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/1cb42bb5=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:49:46 -0600
From: Engl <engl@accesscomm.ca>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Austin Healey
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Michael
You?ve had some great suggestions from a couple of others, but if those iss=
ues don?t seem to fix the problem, try a different coil. I had the exact sa=
me issues on my E a couple of years ago - turned out to be a wonky 10 year =
old Lucas Sportcoil.
Bob England
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 11:45 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wro=
te:
>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the c=
ar suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading=
up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after =
about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To m=
y surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A=
bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I wa=
s paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for abo=
ut 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut of=
f the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything see=
med fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the=
coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the ha=
rness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
>
>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned=
on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right =
up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, abou=
t ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the proble=
m did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a f=
uel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch m=
ounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pump=
s as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway=
speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? posit=
ion it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudd=
enly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing =
with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition syste=
m or to the primary wires that run to it.
>
>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car=
has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been i=
n place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the dist=
ributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The inter=
ior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon cont=
act, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor i=
n the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idlin=
g I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at th=
e positive coil terminal.
>
>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in plac=
e of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch th=
rough a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sen=
der line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when th=
e engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I co=
nclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. An=
d though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it =
seem tight and intact.
>
>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without find=
ing something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start =
any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to h=
appen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues wh=
atever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any=
work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl@ac=
cesscomm.ca
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190319/50b86e48=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 02:57:58 +0000
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>, Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Message-ID:
<DM6PR07MB45387DB665592F6674BD9EE6A5410@DM6PR07MB4538.namprd07.prod=
.outlook.com>
Sounds like a bad coil. The problem they have is temperature related with o=
ne or the other of the windings having a broken wire which is in contact at=
lower temperatures, but loses continuity when the coil warms up. I drove m=
y old Range Rover classic 300 miles with this problem once with the coil cu=
tting out every 20 miles or so. It is seared in my mind.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bluehealey <blu=
ehealey@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 9:36 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved =
by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - whi=
ch can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.
Keep us all in the loop.
Bluehealey.com<http://Bluehealey.com>
Alan - from my iPad
hael.oritt@gmail.com>> wrote:
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To my =
surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A b=
it perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was =
paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about=
1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off =
the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seeme=
d fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the c=
oil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the harn=
ess/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem =
did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fue=
l delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mou=
nted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pumps =
as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway s=
peeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? positio=
n it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudden=
ly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing wi=
th a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system =
or to the primary wires that run to it.
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contac=
t, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling =
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the =
positive coil terminal.
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the =
engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conc=
lude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it se=
em tight and intact.
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues what=
ever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any w=
ork related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
y@gmail.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/4685212c=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:02:06 -0700
From: "=3D?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=3D" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] sudden stop
my bj8 was doing the same thing many years back. had a relatively new coil=
on it, but suspected it might be the culprit.
put an old beat up lucas coil on and it is stopped the problem. coil is st=
ill on car and says it was made in 65.
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 18:50:09 +1300
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
Message-ID:
<CAB3i7LJ=3DvLGBhSjfVgDQXfRYUh9g2F1mSoMhGikJ+634i-ktbw@mail.gmail.c=
om>
Obviously you aren't on "flat rate" ????
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 6:35 PM Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:
> I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it
> tomorrow.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> *To: *"AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 19, 2019 10:56:10 AM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
>
> ?
>
> How to get it back in! Been there. Done that.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net>
> *To:* Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 18, 2019 3:36 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
>
>
>
>> I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7
>> w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot
>> hear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working
>> intermittently and now it's not working
>
> at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm
>> planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from ab=
ove.
>
>
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What
> should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
>> donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194@gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/11d6dbf1=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and t=
he other was my Petronix
Jon
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wro=
te:
>
> Hi Michael--
>
> Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event =
that happened last week.
>
> As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replace=
d the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts,=
so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually=
find the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing connect=
ion, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc.=
and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going =
through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see if I can=
find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Un=
ilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.
>
> Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael
>
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com=
> wrote:
>> Hi Michael,
>> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so i=
t might well be worth checking.
>> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coi=
l. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly =
dying.
>> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a signi=
ficant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver whic=
h I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually oka=
y ... it wasn't.
>> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by inst=
alling a replacement.
>> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which w=
as confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then f=
inding that the engine started immediately.
>> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engin=
e to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
>> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coi=
l can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
>>
>> M
>>
>> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
>>
>>
>>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wro=
te:
>>> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..
>>>
>>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot?=
Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused en=
dless tears.
>>>
>>> Or is it a black/white wire?
>>>
>>> Worth a look.
>>>
>>> Simon
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Ori=
tt
>>> Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46
>>> To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the=
car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leadi=
ng up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and afte=
r about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To=
my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly.=
A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I =
was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for a=
bout 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut =
off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything s=
eemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from t=
he coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the =
harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
>>>
>>>
>>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turn=
ed on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started righ=
t up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, ab=
out ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the prob=
lem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a=
fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch=
mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pu=
mps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highw=
ay speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? pos=
ition it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had su=
ddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealin=
g with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition sys=
tem or to the primary wires that run to it.
>>>
>>>
>>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The c=
ar has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been=
in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the di=
stributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The int=
erior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon co=
ntact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor=
in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idl=
ing I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at =
the positive coil terminal.
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in pl=
ace of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch =
through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge s=
ender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when =
the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I =
conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. =
And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from i=
t seem tight and intact.
>>>
>>>
>>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without fi=
nding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to star=
t any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to=
happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues =
whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed a=
ny work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/micha=
elsalter@gmail.com
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhorn=
lawoffice@gmail.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/f7240705=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 07:08:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Message-ID:
<1307766788.17004904.1553080119370.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and =
go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and t=
he other was my PetronixJon
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote=
:
Hi Michael--
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event th=
at happened last week.
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced =
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, s=
o scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually f=
ind the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing connectio=
n, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. a=
nd then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going th=
rough the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see if I can f=
ind the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unil=
ite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com> w=
rote:
Hi Michael,
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it m=
ight well be worth checking.The symptoms sound very similar to those I enco=
untered with a faulty coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly cons=
istently before suddenly dying.
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a signific=
ant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I=
at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually okay .=
.. it wasn't.
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by install=
ing a replacement.I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty co=
ndenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it =
down and then finding that the engine started immediately.As I'm sure you a=
re aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine to stop dead ... i=
t typically sort of peters out!!
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil c=
an be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
M
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..Do 100s=
have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s ha=
ve the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tears=
.Or is it a black/white wire?Worth a look.Simon From: Healeys <healeys-boun=
ces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly Yesterday morning I went out for a dri=
ve and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough run=
ning, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted=
to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still=
on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, =
revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to =
see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accele=
rated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in th=
e same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined =
the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firml=
y in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wire=
s to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see =
below) seemed fine.
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem =
did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fue=
l delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mou=
nted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pumps =
as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway s=
peeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? positio=
n it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudden=
ly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing wi=
th a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system =
or to the primary wires that run to it.
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contac=
t, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling =
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the =
positive coil terminal.
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the =
engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conc=
lude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it se=
em tight and intact.
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues what=
ever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any w=
ork related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?. Bes=
t--Michael Oritt, BN1_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
lter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
woffice@gmail.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/496de9fe=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 23:04:24 +1100
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
My money is on a broken/ missing tooth on the 1st/ reverse idler. On the re=
verse side.
And some collateral damage on 1st on the cluster/ 1st slider gear.
Love to hear the outcome of the autopsy.
Good luck, and carefully check/ strain the contents of the oil before remov=
al.
Best
Chris
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 9:36 am, Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/ov=
erdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it=
at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently a=
nd now it's not working
>> at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm p=
lanning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What sh=
ould I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donati=
on $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfull=
er194@gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000=
me@gmail.com
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc=
@knology.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.=
healey@gmail.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/0c724c7a=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 13:25:40 -0000
From: <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "'Jonathan Einhorn'"
<einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Yes, that?s what I?d always thought. But, I suppose, thinking something doe=
sn?t always make it so.
Simon
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: 20 March 2019 11:09
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and =
go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.
tom
----- Original Message -----
@gmail.com> >
>
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and t=
he other was my Petronix
Jon
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com <mailt=
o:michael.oritt@gmail.com> > wrote:
Hi Michael--
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event th=
at happened last week.
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced =
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, s=
o scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually f=
ind the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing connectio=
n, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. a=
nd then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going th=
rough the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see if I can f=
ind the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unil=
ite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com <m=
ailto:michael.salter@gmail.com> > wrote:
Hi Michael,
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it m=
ight well be worth checking.
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. =
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dyi=
ng.
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a signific=
ant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I=
at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually okay .=
.. it wasn't.
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by install=
ing a replacement.
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was =
confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then find=
ing that the engine started immediately.
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine t=
o stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil c=
an be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
M
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> > wrote:
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do =
100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endles=
s tears.
Or is it a black/white wire?
Worth a look.
Simon
.team.net> > On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To my =
surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A b=
it perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was =
paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about=
1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off =
the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seeme=
d fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the c=
oil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the harn=
ess/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem =
did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fue=
l delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mou=
nted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between pumps =
as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway s=
peeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? positio=
n it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had sudden=
ly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing wi=
th a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system =
or to the primary wires that run to it.
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contac=
t, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling =
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the =
positive coil terminal.
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the =
engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conc=
lude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it se=
em tight and intact.
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues what=
ever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any w=
ork related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
lter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
woffice@gmail.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/cd7e24eb=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 06:52:09 -0700
From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Charles Schott'"
<schottc@knology.net>
Cc: 'Healey Mail List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
I agree with Chris. That was my experience. Now I have a cluster gear pap=
er weight.
Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Di=
mmock
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 5:04 AM
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
My money is on a broken/ missing tooth on the 1st/ reverse idler. On the re=
verse side.
And some collateral damage on 1st on the cluster/ 1st slider gear.
Love to hear the outcome of the autopsy.
Good luck, and carefully check/ strain the contents of the oil before remov=
al.
Best
Chris
ottc@knology.net> > wrote:
I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overd=
rive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at=
all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and =
now it's not working
at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm plan=
ning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What shou=
ld I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.
Regards,
Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
ed annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
94@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
nology.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
aley@gmail.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/75c4a3df=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 07:32:46 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
If the starter cranks well and consistently it's not likely the battery
cut-off switch.? I believe Michael indicated he removed the 'anti-theft'
white/black wire.
Bob
On 3/19/2019 7:29 PM, i erbs wrote:
> I'm with everyone else. bypass the battery cut off switch and see if
> that fixes the problem.
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190320/36964170=
/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 10:29:11 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise
On 3/19/19 5:25 PM, Charles Schott wrote:
> I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it
> tomorrow.
>
Back when I was working at my friend's shop I could drive a TR6 into the
shop (assuming it was driveable!) and 2 hours later the gearbox would be
on the bench ready to start a rebuild.? Proper tools and fancy lifts are
very nice.
On a side note, won't get to the new server this week, but am shooting
for next week.? Thanks to all those who contributed.
mjb.
------------------------------
Subject: Digest Footer
_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
------------------------------
End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 92
***************************************
[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-anim=
ated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&u=
tm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail&utm_term=3D=
icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medi=
um=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail=
&utm_term=3Dlink>
--_000_MWHPR11MB1486E74A76BC2290956C8074B5420MWHPR11MB1486namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Had my 100 die suddenly one night.....source of the shut down was a short i=
n the dip switch !!! </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Omitting the sordid details of what happened that night, it started right u=
p when I switched to the high beam.</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <h=
ealeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, March 20, 2019 11:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 92</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
>
<div class=3D"PlainText">Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<br>
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</=
a><br>
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br>
healeys-request@autox.team.net<b=
r>
<br>
You can reach the person managing the list at<br>
healeys-owner@autox.team.net<br>
<br>
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."<br>
<br>
<br>
Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: Car dies suddenly (simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com)<b=
r>
2. Re: Car dies suddenly (Elton Schulz)<br>
3. Re: Car dies suddenly (Bluehealey)<br>
4. Re: Car dies suddenly (skip saunders)<br>
5. Re: Gearbox Noise (Charles Schott)<br>
6. Re: Car dies suddenly (Michael Salter)<br>
7. Re: Car dies suddenly (Michael Oritt)<br>
8. Re: Car dies suddenly (i erbs)<br>
9. Re: Car dies suddenly (Engl)<br>
10. Re: Car dies suddenly (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
11. sudden stop (=3D?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=3D)<br>
12. Re: Gearbox Noise (Michael Salter)<br>
13. Re: Car dies suddenly (Jonathan Einhorn)<br>
14. Re: Car dies suddenly (Tom Felts)<br>
15. Re: Gearbox Noise (Chris Dimmock)<br>
16. Re: Car dies suddenly (simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com)<br>
17. Re: Gearbox Noise (Bruce Steele)<br>
18. Re: Car dies suddenly (Bob Spidell)<br>
19. Re: Gearbox Noise (Mark J Bradakis)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:49:13 -0000<br>
From: <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com><br>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Aus=
tin Healey'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><b=
r>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
<br>
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do =
100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endles=
s tears.<br>
<br>
Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
<br>
Worth a look.<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael O=
ritt<br>
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immedia=
tely, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive =
on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I=
shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everyt=
hing seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the =
light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch i=
tself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ign=
ition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/2f740cc8/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/2f740cc8/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:07:10 -0400<br>
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
flowed"<br>
<br>
Michael,<br>
Could it be the battery cutoff switch in the trunk or the black/white <br>
wire from that switch to the distributor?<br>
Elton<br>
On 3/19/2019 1:45 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:<br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles <b=
r>
> the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or <br>
> missing leading up to it---the car simply died. I coasted to the side =
<br>
> of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I <b=
r>
> pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, <=
br>
> revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive <=
br>
> on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The=
<br>
> car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it <=
br>
> died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped <=
br>
> the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed <br>
> fine---all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from =
<br>
> the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight <b=
r>
> and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<=
br>
><br>
><br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, <br=
>
> turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car <br=
>
> started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for <=
br>
> my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without any further=
<br>
> event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to=
<br>
> verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed=
<br>
> SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver's seat <=
br>
> which allows me to switch between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump =
<br>
> off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on=
<br>
> either pump and when I selected the "off" position it slowly=
lost <br>
> power as I expected it to---but in no way like it had suddenly twice <=
br>
> died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a=
<br>
> fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system =
<br>
> or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
><br>
><br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The =
<br>
> car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which <b=
r>
> has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I <=
br>
> removed the distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at <br>
> least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as <=
br>
> was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory <br>
> specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power <br=
>
> source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC <=
br>
> to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil=
<br>
> terminal.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in <=
br>
> place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition =
<br>
> switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil <br>
> pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out <br=
>
> because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light <br>
> immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch <b=
r>
> itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove <=
br>
> the ignition key switch the wires to and from it seem tight and intact=
.<br>
><br>
><br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without <=
br>
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don't know where =
<br>
> to start any further tests, etc. I also don't want to simply wait for =
<br>
> the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 <br>
> miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last <=
br>
> week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All=
<br>
> suggestions/questions welcome....<br>
><br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/eschulz@frontiernet.net">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz@frontiernet.net</a><b=
r>
><br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/a83c7d41/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/a83c7d41/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 21:36:30 +0000<br>
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved =
by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.<br>
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - whi=
ch can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.<br>
Keep us all in the loop.<br>
Bluehealey.com<br>
<br>
Alan - from my iPad<br>
<br>
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>=
; wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles th=
e car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing lead=
ing up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and aft=
er about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immedia=
tely, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive =
on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I=
shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everyt=
hing seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, tur=
ned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started rig=
ht up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, a=
bout ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The =
car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has bee=
n in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the d=
istributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in p=
lace of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch=
through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge =
sender line and then to the light.
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday th=
e light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch=
itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the i=
gnition key switch the wires to
and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without f=
inding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to sta=
rt any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue t=
o happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
> <br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
> <br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/bluehealey@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com</a><br>
> <br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/db83bfe8/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/db83bfe8/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:41:51 -0400<br>
From: "skip saunders" <tfsbj7@gmail.com><br>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Aus=
tin Healey'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><b=
r>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Many years ago, I had the exact same experience. It turned out =
to be a faulty ignition key switch. When jouncing around the we=
ight of the key (and associated other keys) would seem to move the switch e=
ver so slightly. I did an autopsy on the switch?.turned
out to be extremely robust plastic/bakelite but very flimsy metal innards.=
I replaced the switch with a GM switch (this was many many yea=
rs ago?.before concourse was even a thought in my head) and drove the car f=
or another 50-60k miles?.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best Wishes <br>
<br>
-skip-<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:hea=
leys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 1:46 PM<br>
To: Austin Healey<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immedia=
tely, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive =
on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I=
shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everyt=
hing seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the =
light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch i=
tself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ign=
ition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/4f248849/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/4f248849/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 19:25:14 -0400 (EDT)<br>
From: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net><br>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<189186061.2815522.1553037914=
250.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net><br>
<br>
I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it tomorro=
w. <br>
<br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
Charlie <br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
<br>
From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net&=
gt; <br>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net> <br>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 10:56:10 AM <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise <br>
<br>
How to get it back in! Been there. Done that. <br>
(The Other) Len <br>
Fairfield, CA, USA <br>
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message ----- <br>
From: Charles Schott <br>
To: Tom <br>
Cc: Healey Mail List <br>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 3:36 PM <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote><br>
<br>
I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overd=
rive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at=
all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and =
now it's not working
<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote><br>
at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm plan=
ning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.
<br>
</blockquote><br>
<br>
<br>
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What shou=
ld I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.
<br>
<br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
Charlie Schott <br>
<br>
<blockquote><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________ <br>
m.net/donate.html</a> Suggested annual donation $12.75
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
<br>
<br>
s/alfuller194@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194@gmail.com</a> <br=
>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________ <br>
m.net/donate.html</a>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
<br>
<br>
s/ah3000me@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com</a> <br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote><br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________ <br>
m.net/donate.html</a>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
<br>
<br>
s/schottc@knology.net">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net</a> <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________ <br>
m.net/donate.html</a>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
s/thehartnetts@earthlink.net">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net</a=
> <br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote><br>
<br>
_______________________________________________ <br>
m.net/donate.html</a>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
<br>
<br>
s/schottc@knology.net">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net</a> <br>
<br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/e7f94ed4/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/e7f94ed4/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 14:34:19 +1300<br>
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com><br>
To: simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com<br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LKjePQjA-pNp4SOsMMTAVp=
J_iMQmNzzkEOKEXupJSJDuQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
<br>
Hi Michael,<br>
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it<b=
r>
might well be worth checking.<br>
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil.<=
br>
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly<br>
dying.<br>
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a<br>
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver=
<br>
which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was act=
ually<br>
okay ... it wasn't.<br>
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by<br>
installing a replacement.<br>
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was<=
br>
confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then<br>
finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine<b=
r>
to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular c=
oil<br>
can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<=
br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> w=
rote:<br>
<br>
> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<b=
r>
><br>
> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot=
? Do<br>
> 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused<b=
r>
> endless tears.<br>
><br>
> Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
><br>
> Worth a look.<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *=
Michael<br>
> Oritt<br>
> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles th=
e<br>
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing<b=
r>
> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the roa=
d and<br>
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start<b=
r>
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and =
idled<br>
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happ=
en<br>
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly an=
d ran<br>
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as<b=
r>
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition=
<br>
> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in pla=
ce as<br>
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the =
coil<br>
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) se=
emed<br>
> fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, tur=
ned<br>
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started ri=
ght<br>
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,=
<br>
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though t=
he<br>
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this =
was<br>
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired t=
o a<br>
> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch=
<br>
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running t=
he<br>
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selec=
ted<br>
> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no =
way<br>
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicat=
ed I<br>
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either =
to<br>
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
><br>
><br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The =
car<br>
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has be=
en in<br>
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the<b=
r>
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. =
The<br>
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, c=
arbon<br>
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast<b=
r>
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the en=
gine<br>
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out =
of it<br>
> and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in p=
lace<br>
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch=
<br>
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure ga=
uge<br>
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times=
when<br>
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from whi=
ch I<br>
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the prob=
lem.<br>
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and f=
rom<br>
> it seem tight and intact.<br>
><br>
><br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without<b=
r>
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where =
to<br>
> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the=
<br>
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles wi=
th no<br>
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not=
<br>
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All<br>
> suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter=
@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
><br>
><br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/e94ca7c5/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/e94ca7c5/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 22:07:21 -0400<br>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAPTa0B56QVtJUgiAtx1ZgQ3bVGo=
haY9tYjpm7QdBbQJmwsoy6Q@mail.gmail.com><br>
<br>
Hi Michael--<br>
<br>
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event<br=
>
that happened last week.<br>
<br>
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced<=
br>
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts,<b=
r>
so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actu=
ally<br>
find the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing<br>
connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing<br>
disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'l=
l<br>
start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch<b=
r>
and see if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll st=
art<br>
on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) ,<b=
r>
has no condenser.<br>
<br>
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com=
><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Hi Michael,<br>
> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so=
it<br>
> might well be worth checking.<br>
> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty c=
oil.<br>
> Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenl=
y<br>
> dying.<br>
> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a<br>
> significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwd=
river<br>
> which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil wa=
s actually<br>
> okay ... it wasn't.<br>
> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by<br=
>
> installing a replacement.<br>
> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which=
was<br>
> confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then=
<br>
> finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the eng=
ine<br>
> to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regu=
lar coil<br>
> can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
><br>
> M<br>
><br>
> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google t=
ime.<br>
><br>
><br>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com&=
gt; wrote:<br>
><br>
>> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?=
..<br>
>><br>
>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the =
boot?<br>
>> Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has c=
aused<br>
>> endless tears.<br>
>><br>
>> Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
>><br>
>> Worth a look.<br>
>><br>
>> Simon<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf =
Of *Michael<br>
>> Oritt<br>
>> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
>> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five mile=
s the<br>
>> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missi=
ng<br>
>> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the=
road and<br>
>> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the sta=
rt<br>
>> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely =
and idled<br>
>> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would =
happen<br>
>> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothl=
y and ran<br>
>> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner =
as<br>
>> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the igni=
tion<br>
>> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in=
place as<br>
>> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to =
the coil<br>
>> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below=
) seemed<br>
>> fine.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car,=
turned<br>
>> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car starte=
d right<br>
>> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/gar=
age,<br>
>> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Thou=
gh the<br>
>> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that t=
his was<br>
>> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wir=
ed to a<br>
>> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to sw=
itch<br>
>> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was runni=
ng the<br>
>> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I s=
elected<br>
>> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in=
no way<br>
>> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This ind=
icated I<br>
>> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related eit=
her to<br>
>> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. =
The car<br>
>> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which ha=
s been in<br>
>> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed t=
he<br>
>> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visual=
ly. The<br>
>> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, lead=
s, carbon<br>
>> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a balla=
st<br>
>> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with th=
e engine<br>
>> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC =
out of it<br>
>> and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash =
in<br>
>> place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignit=
ion<br>
>> switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil =
pressure<br>
>> gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out because =
both<br>
>> times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately ca=
me on,<br>
>> from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the s=
ource of<br>
>> the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch t=
he wires<br>
>> to and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it witho=
ut<br>
>> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know wh=
ere to<br>
>> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for=
the<br>
>> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 mile=
s with no<br>
>> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have=
not<br>
>> performed any work related to the ignition system. All<br>
>> suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>><br>
>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://=
www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive</a><br>
>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>><br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsa=
lter@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
>><br>
>><br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/b763dbdc/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/b763dbdc/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 19:29:21 -0700<br>
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CABXhz88U7SBUYAKq8TfFrP8sOR=
=3DkMEXeVKspjeNJnbvaoKfoRg@mail.gmail.com><br>
<br>
I'm with everyone else. bypass the battery cut off switch and see if that<b=
r>
fixes the problem.<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
Portland,OR<br>
_______ &=
nbsp; &nbs=
p; &=
nbsp; _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________=
)<br>
BT7 engine and disk =
brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB [image: MG]<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 1:48 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com&g=
t;<br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles th=
e<br>
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing<b=
r>
> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the roa=
d and<br>
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start<b=
r>
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and =
idled<br>
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happ=
en<br>
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly an=
d ran<br>
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as<b=
r>
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition=
<br>
> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in pla=
ce as<br>
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the =
coil<br>
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) se=
emed<br>
> fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, tur=
ned<br>
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started ri=
ght<br>
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,=
<br>
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though t=
he<br>
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this =
was<br>
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired t=
o a<br>
> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch=
<br>
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running t=
he<br>
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selec=
ted<br>
> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no =
way<br>
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicat=
ed I<br>
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either =
to<br>
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
><br>
><br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The =
car<br>
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has be=
en in<br>
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the<b=
r>
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. =
The<br>
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, c=
arbon<br>
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast<b=
r>
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the en=
gine<br>
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out =
of it<br>
> and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in p=
lace<br>
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch=
<br>
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure ga=
uge<br>
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times=
when<br>
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from whi=
ch I<br>
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the prob=
lem.<br>
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and f=
rom<br>
> it seem tight and intact.<br>
><br>
><br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without<b=
r>
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where =
to<br>
> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the=
<br>
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles wi=
th no<br>
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not=
<br>
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All<br>
> suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
><br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gma=
il.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com</=
a><br>
><br>
><br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/1cb42bb5/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/1cb42bb5/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:49:46 -0600<br>
From: Engl <engl@accesscomm.ca><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Austin Healey<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><b=
r>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Michael<br>
<br>
You?ve had some great suggestions from a couple of others, but if those iss=
ues don?t seem to fix the problem, try a different coil. I had the exact sa=
me issues on my E a couple of years ago - turned out to be a wonky 10 year =
old Lucas Sportcoil.
<br>
<br>
Bob England<br>
<br>
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 11:45 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.co=
m> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles th=
e car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing lead=
ing up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and aft=
er about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immedia=
tely, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive =
on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I=
shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everyt=
hing seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, tur=
ned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started rig=
ht up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, a=
bout ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The =
car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has bee=
n in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the d=
istributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in p=
lace of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch=
through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge =
sender line and then to the light.
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday th=
e light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch=
itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the i=
gnition key switch the wires to
and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without f=
inding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to sta=
rt any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue t=
o happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
> <br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
> <br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/engl@accesscomm.ca">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl@accesscomm.ca</a><br>
> <br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90319/50b86e48/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190319/50b86e48/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 02:57:58 +0000<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com><br>
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>, Michael Oritt<br>
<michael.oritt@gmail.com><=
br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<DM6PR07MB45387DB665592F6674B=
D9EE6A5410@DM6PR07MB4538.namprd07.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
<br>
Sounds like a bad coil. The problem they have is temperature related with o=
ne or the other of the windings having a broken wire which is in contact at=
lower temperatures, but loses continuity when the coil warms up. I drove m=
y old Range Rover classic 300 miles
with this problem once with the coil cutting out every 20 miles or so. It =
is seared in my mind.<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
BN1 #554<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Blueheale=
y <bluehealey@gmail.com><br>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 9:36 PM<br>
To: Michael Oritt<br>
Cc: Austin Healey<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved =
by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.<br>
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - whi=
ch can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.<br>
Keep us all in the loop.<br>
Bluehealey.com<<a href=3D"http://Bluehealey.com";>http://Bluehealey.com</=
a>><br>
<br>
Alan - from my iPad<br>
<br>
On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com<mail=
to:michael.oritt@gmail.com>> wrote:<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immedia=
tely, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive =
on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I=
shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everyt=
hing seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the =
light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch i=
tself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ign=
ition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/bluehealey@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/4685212c/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/4685212c/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:02:06 -0700<br>
From: "=3D?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=3D" <healeymanjim@hansencc.ne=
t><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] sudden stop<br>
<br>
my bj8 was doing the same thing many years back. had a relatively new=
coil on it, but suspected it might be the culprit.
<br>
put an old beat up lucas coil on and it is stopped the problem. coil =
is still on car and says it was made in 65.<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 18:50:09 +1300<br>
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com><br>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LJ=3DvLGBhSjfVgDQXfRYU=
h9g2F1mSoMhGikJ+634i-ktbw@mail.gmail.com><br>
<br>
Obviously you aren't on "flat rate" ????<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 6:35 PM Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net> =
wrote:<br>
<br>
> I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it<br=
>
> tomorrow.<br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
><br>
> Charlie<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> *From: *"Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthli=
nk.net><br>
> *To: *"AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 19, 2019 10:56:10 AM<br>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
><br>
> ?<br>
><br>
> How to get it back in! Been there. Done that.<br>
><br>
> (The Other) Len<br>
> Fairfield, CA, USA<br>
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031<br>
><br>
> ----- Original Message -----<br>
> *From:* Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
> *To:* Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com><br>
> *Cc:* Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 18, 2019 3:36 PM<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
>> I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT=
7<br>
>> w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I c=
annot<br>
>> hear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working<=
br>
>> intermittently and now it's not working<br>
><br>
> at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm=
<br>
>> planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out f=
rom above.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What=
<br>
> should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.<br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
><br>
> Charlie Schott<br>
><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html</a> Suggested annual<br>
>> donation $12.75<br>
>><br>
>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://=
www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive</a><br>
>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>><br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller1=
94@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194@gmail.com</a><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>><br>
>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://=
www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive</a><br>
>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>><br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@=
gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com=
</a><br>
>><br>
>><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knolo=
gy.net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net</=
a><br>
><br>
><br>
> ------------------------------<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/";>http://autox.team.net/mailm=
an/</a>options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knolo=
gy.net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net</=
a><br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter=
@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
><br>
><br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/11d6dbf1/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/11d6dbf1/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 13<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400<br>
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and t=
he other was my Petronix<br>
Jon<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.co=
m> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Hi Michael--<br>
> <br>
> Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible eve=
nt that happened last week.
<br>
> <br>
> As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and repl=
aced the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contac=
ts, so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to =
actually find the definite issue such as
a defective component or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching =
into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something =
or nothing to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circui=
t beginning with the key switch and see
if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on =
the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has =
no condenser.<br>
> <br>
> Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
> <br>
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@=
gmail.com> wrote:<br>
>> Hi Michael,<br>
>> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switc=
h so it might well be worth checking.<br>
>> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faul=
ty coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before sud=
denly dying.
<br>
>> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a=
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdrive=
r which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was a=
ctually okay ... it wasn't.<br>
>> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil b=
y installing a replacement.<br>
>> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser w=
hich was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and =
then finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
>> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the=
engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
>> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a =
regular coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution=
.<br>
>> <br>
>> M<br>
>> <br>
>> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Goog=
le time.<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.p=
lus.com> wrote:<br>
>>> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 pl=
ugs?..<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in =
the boot? Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has =
caused endless tears.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Worth a look.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Simon<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf=
Of Michael Oritt<br>
>>> Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
>>> To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five =
miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or miss=
ing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road=
and after about 30 seconds since the key
was still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started imm=
ediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to dr=
ive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The =
car accelerated smoothly and ran
fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earli=
er. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. E=
verything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the =
lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the =
car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car sta=
rted right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/g=
arage, about ten miles away and got there
without any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel rela=
ted I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a d=
ouble-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?=
s seat which allows me to switch
between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the c=
ar at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected th=
e ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way lik=
e it had suddenly twice died 15
or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue =
but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primar=
y wires that run to it.
<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the probl=
em. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which=
has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I remov=
ed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the d=
ash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignitio=
n switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressur=
e gauge sender line and then to the light.
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday th=
e light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch=
itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the i=
gnition key switch the wires to
and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it w=
ithout finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know wher=
e to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the=
issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
>>> <br>
>>> _______________________________________________<br>
>>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>h=
ttp://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>htt=
p://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>>> <br>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/o=
ptions/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
>>> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
> <br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com</a=
><br>
> <br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/f7240705/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/f7240705/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 14<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 07:08:39 -0400 (EDT)<br>
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net><br>
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<1307766788.17004904.15530801=
19370.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net><br>
<br>
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and =
go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.to=
m<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and t=
he other was my PetronixJon<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>=
wrote:<br>
<br>
Hi Michael--<br>
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event th=
at happened last week.
<br>
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced =
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, s=
o scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actua=
lly find the definite issue such as a
defective component or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching in=
to replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or=
nothing to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit =
beginning with the key switch and see
if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on =
the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has =
no condenser.<br>
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com=
> wrote:<br>
Hi Michael,<br>
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it m=
ight well be worth checking.The symptoms sound very similar to those I enco=
untered with a faulty coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly cons=
istently before suddenly dying.
<br>
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a signific=
ant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I=
at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually o=
kay ... it wasn't.<br>
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by install=
ing a replacement.I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty co=
ndenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it =
down and then finding that the engine
started immediately.As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem neve=
r causes the engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular c=
oil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
M<br>
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<=
br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> w=
rote:<br>
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..Do 100s=
have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s ha=
ve the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tears=
.Or is it a black/white wire?Worth
a look.Simon From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behal=
f Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly Yesterday morning I went out for a dri=
ve and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough run=
ning, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted=
to the side of the road and after
about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To =
my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. =
A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I w=
as paying close attention. The car
accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died agai=
n in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and ex=
amined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads wer=
e firmly in place as was the lead
from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight a=
nd the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the =
light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch i=
tself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ign=
ition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?. Best--Michael Oritt, BN1__________=
_____________________________________<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.=
net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<br>
s/michaelsalter@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.=
net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com</a=
><br>
<br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/496de9fe/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/496de9fe/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 15<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 23:04:24 +1100<br>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com><br>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
<br>
My money is on a broken/ missing tooth on the 1st/ reverse idler. On the re=
verse side.<br>
And some collateral damage on 1st on the cluster/ 1st slider gear. <br>
Love to hear the outcome of the autopsy. <br>
Good luck, and carefully check/ strain the contents of the oil before remov=
al. <br>
Best<br>
Chris<br>
<br>
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 9:36 am, Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net>=
wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
>> <br>
>> I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT=
7 w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot h=
ear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermitte=
ntly and now it's not working
<br>
>> at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly.=
I'm planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from =
above.<br>
> <br>
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What=
should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.<br>
> <br>
> Regards,<br>
> <br>
> Charlie Schott<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html</a> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>> <br>
>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://au=
tox.team.net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
>> <br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>> <br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/optio=
ns/healeys/alfuller194@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194@gmail.com</a><br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>> <br>
>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://au=
tox.team.net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
>> <br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>> <br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/optio=
ns/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com</a><br>
>> <br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
> <br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/schottc@knology.net">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net</a><br>
> <br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
> <br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/austin.healey@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
> <br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/0c724c7a/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/0c724c7a/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 16<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 13:25:40 -0000<br>
From: <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com><br>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "'Jonatha=
n Einhorn'"<br>
<einhornlawoffice@gmail.com&g=
t;<br>
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Yes, that?s what I?d always thought. But, I suppose, thinking something doe=
sn?t always make it so.<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Felts=
<br>
Sent: 20 March 2019 11:09<br>
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and =
go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.<b=
r>
<br>
tom<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com <<a href=3D"mailto=
:einhornlawoffice@gmail.com">mailto:einhornlawoffice@gmail.com</a>> >=
<br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com <<a href=3D"mailto:michael=
.oritt@gmail.com">mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> ><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@=
autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> ><br>
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and t=
he other was my Petronix<br>
<br>
Jon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
<br>
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com <=
;<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";>mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com<=
/a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Hi Michael--<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event th=
at happened last week.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced =
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, s=
o scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actua=
lly find the definite issue such as a
defective component or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching in=
to replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or=
nothing to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit =
beginning with the key switch and see
if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on =
the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has =
no condenser.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com=
<<a href=3D"mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com";>mailto:michael.salter@gmai=
l.com</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
Hi Michael,<br>
<br>
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it m=
ight well be worth checking.<br>
<br>
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. =
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dyi=
ng.
<br>
<br>
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a signific=
ant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I=
at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually o=
kay ... it wasn't.<br>
<br>
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by install=
ing a replacement.<br>
<br>
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was =
confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then find=
ing that the engine started immediately.<br>
<br>
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine t=
o stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
<br>
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular c=
oil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<=
br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com <<=
a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com";>mailto:simon.lachlan@al=
exarevel.plus.com</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
<br>
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do =
100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endles=
s tears.<br>
<br>
Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
<br>
Worth a look.<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:heal=
eys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> &=
gt; On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@=
autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> ><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after ab=
out 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immedia=
tely, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive =
on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I=
shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everyt=
hing seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the di=
stributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I de=
cided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-he=
aded SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat w=
hich allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at hi=
ghway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? =
position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had=
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather som=
ething related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that r=
un to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean a=
nd dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory =
specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source t=
o the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the=
positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the =
light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch i=
tself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ign=
ition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start an=
y further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to hap=
pen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four ne=
w plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition sys=
tem. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.=
net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>mailto=
:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
s/michaelsalter@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.=
net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>mailto=
:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com</a=
><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/cd7e24eb/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/cd7e24eb/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 17<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 06:52:09 -0700<br>
From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com><br>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Cha=
rles Schott'"<br>
<schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: 'Healey Mail List' <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
<br>
I agree with Chris. That was my experience. Now I have a cluste=
r gear paper weight.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bruce Steele<br>
<br>
Brea, CA<br>
<br>
1960 BN7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:hea=
leys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock<br>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 5:04 AM<br>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My money is on a broken/ missing tooth on the 1st/ reverse idler. On the re=
verse side.<br>
<br>
And some collateral damage on 1st on the cluster/ 1st slider gear. <br>
<br>
Love to hear the outcome of the autopsy. <br>
<br>
Good luck, and carefully check/ strain the contents of the oil before remov=
al. <br>
<br>
Best<br>
<br>
Chris<br>
<br>
<br>
On 19 Mar 2019, at 9:36 am, Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:schottc@knology.net";>mailto:schottc@knology.net</a>> > =
wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overd=
rive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at=
all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and =
now it's not working
<br>
<br>
at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm plan=
ning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.<br=
>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What shou=
ld I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Charlie Schott<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
sp; <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.=
net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>mailto=
:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/alfuller194@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
sp; <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.=
net/archive">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>mailto=
:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/ah3000me@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
sp; <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>mailto=
:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
s/schottc@knology.net">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
sp; <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>mailto=
:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/austin.healey@gmail.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
<br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/75c4a3df/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/75c4a3df/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 18<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 07:32:46 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
d"<br>
<br>
If the starter cranks well and consistently it's not likely the battery <br=
>
cut-off switch.? I believe Michael indicated he removed the 'anti-theft' <b=
r>
white/black wire.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
On 3/19/2019 7:29 PM, i erbs wrote:<br>
> I'm with everyone else. bypass the battery cut off switch and see if <=
br>
> that fixes the problem.<br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
> Portland,OR<br>
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______<br>
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
> (_________________________)<br>
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
><br>
-------------- next part --------------<br>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
URL: <<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/201=
90320/36964170/attachment-0001.html">http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20190320/36964170/attachment-0001.html</a>><br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 19<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 10:29:11 -0600<br>
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
<br>
On 3/19/19 5:25 PM, Charles Schott wrote:<br>
> I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it <b=
r>
> tomorrow.<br>
><br>
Back when I was working at my friend's shop I could drive a TR6 into the <b=
r>
shop (assuming it was driveable!) and 2 hours later the gearbox would be <b=
r>
on the bench ready to start a rebuild.? Proper tools and fancy lifts are <b=
r>
very nice.<br>
<br>
On a side note, won't get to the new server this week, but am shooting <br>
for next week.? Thanks to all those who contributed.<br>
<br>
mjb.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Subject: Digest Footer<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Healeys mailing list<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 92<br>
***************************************<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
</div>
<div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
<table style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style=3D"width: 55px; padding-top: 13px;"><a href=3D"https://www.avast.=
com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Ds=
ig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail&utm_term=3Dicon" target=3D"_blank"><=
img alt=3D"" width=3D"46" height=3D"29" style=3D"width: 46px; height: 29px;=
" src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-ora=
nge-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif"></a></td>
<td style=3D"width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: 13=
px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">
Virus-free. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&a=
mp;utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail=
&utm_term=3Dlink" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"color: #4453ea;">
www.avast.com</a> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<a href=3D"#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" height=3D"1">=
</a></div>
</body>
</html>
--_000_MWHPR11MB1486E74A76BC2290956C8074B5420MWHPR11MB1486namp_--
--===============7846045884059198146==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============7846045884059198146==--
|