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Sounds like a bad coil. The problem they have is temperature related with o=
ne or the other of the windings having a broken wire which is in contact at=
lower temperatures, but loses continuity when the coil warms up. I drove m=
y old Range Rover classic 300 miles with this problem once with the coil cu=
tting out every 20 miles or so. It is seared in my mind.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bluehealey <blu=
ehealey@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 9:36 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved =
by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - whi=
ch can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.
Keep us all in the loop.
Bluehealey.com<http://Bluehealey.com>
Alan - from my iPad
hael.oritt@gmail.com>> wrote:
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car=
suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it=97the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after =
about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To m=
y surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A=
bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I wa=
s paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for abo=
ut 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut of=
f the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything see=
med fine=97all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from t=
he coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the =
harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up=
and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about =
ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem =
did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fue=
l delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mou=
nted just behind the driver=92s seat which allows me to switch between pump=
s as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway=
speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the =93off=94 p=
osition it slowly lost power as I expected it to=97but in no way like it ha=
d suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not de=
aling with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition=
system or to the primary wires that run to it.
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in =
place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distri=
butor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contac=
t, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling =
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the =
positive coil terminal.
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place =
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sende=
r line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the =
engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conc=
lude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it se=
em tight and intact.
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findin=
g something that appears to be defective but I don=92t know where to start =
any further tests, etc. I also don=92t want to simply wait for the issue to=
happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues =
whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed a=
ny work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome=
=85.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
y@gmail.com
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</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Sounds like a bad coil. The problem they have is temperature related with o=
ne or the other of the windings having a broken wire which is in contact at=
lower temperatures, but loses continuity when the coil warms up. I drove m=
y old Range Rover classic 300 miles
with this problem once with the coil cutting out every 20 miles or so. It =
is seared in my mind.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
BN1 #554 </div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com&=
gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, March 19, 2019 9:36 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Michael Oritt<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Austin Healey<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem =
that was resolved by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.
<div>Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon =
- which can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.</=
div>
<div>Keep us all in the loop.</div>
<div><a href=3D"http://Bluehealey.com";>Bluehealey.com</a><br>
<br>
<div id=3D"x_AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Alan - from my iPad</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt=
@gmail.com">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><span style=3D"color=
:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;=
font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Yesterday morning I wen=
t out for a drive and after about five
miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or mis=
sing leading up to it=97the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the r=
oad and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the star=
t button. To my surprise the car started
immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided t=
o drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. =
The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it di=
ed again in the same manner as earlier.
I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Ever=
ything seemed fine=97all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the l=
ead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tigh=
t and the harness/connector to the
distributor (see below) seemed fine.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51=
); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13=
px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibr=
i,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Aft=
er scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on t=
he ignition and pushed the start button.
Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I h=
eaded for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without any fu=
rther event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided t=
o verify that this was not a fuel
delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch moun=
ted just behind the driver=92s seat which allows me to switch between pumps=
as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway =
speeds it ran perfectly on either
pump and when I selected the =93off=94 position it slowly lost power as I =
expected it to=97but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so min=
utes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather=
something related either to the ignition
system or to the primary wires that run to it. </span><br style=3D"co=
lor:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-ser=
if; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibr=
i,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Thi=
s morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has =
a Mallory Unilite ignition system
tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for =
a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears to =
be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and d=
ry as was the cap, leads, carbon
contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resis=
tor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-=
idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and =
at the positive coil terminal. </span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51)=
; font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13p=
x; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibr=
i,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">I h=
ave a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of =
the original overdrive switch. It
is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch =
mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I poin=
t this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light=
immediately came on, from which
I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the proble=
m. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and fro=
m it seem tight and intact.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-fa=
mily:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; backgr=
ound-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibr=
i,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">So =
my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding s=
omething that appears to be defective
but I don=92t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don=92t w=
ant to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I dr=
ove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plu=
gs last week I have not performed any
work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome=85.=
</span><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><span style=3D"color=
:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;=
font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br>
</span></div>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><span style=3D"color=
:rgb(51,51,51); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;=
font-size:13px; background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Best--Michael Oritt, BN=
1</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr"><span>_______________________________________________</spa=
n><br>
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