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Bob,
Usually the 2-post lift arms are too high to get under the Healey, especial=
ly the side with the mufflers.=C2=A0 I have a friend who has a 2-post lift,=
and he has to drive the Healey up on small wooden ramps to get it high eno=
ugh for the lift pad to reach the frame rail on the other side of the muffl=
er.=C2=A0 I have a 4-post lift, and have had no troubles driving the big He=
aley on.=C2=A0 My Sprite needs much more precision, as both wheels ride on =
the inside edge of the ramps. I have a couple of small jacks with which I c=
an jack up the car on each side to remove wheels, or I use a jack in the ja=
cking tray, pushing up on the center of a 2X6 that spans the crossmember, t=
o lift the front or rear of the car.=C2=A0 One other issue I have is that I=
have a 7' garage door, so tall vehicles, such as my VW Vanagon campers, ar=
e lifted up high enough by driving onto the ramp to scrape the roof on the =
top frame of the garage door.=C2=A0 I can get the one with 14" wheels onto =
the lift by deflating the tires to 10 psi.=C2=A0 The one that I have with 1=
5" wheels does not clear the door even with the tires deflated.=C2=A0 Somet=
hing to consider if you have a high-top van or tall truck.
Chuck Ott1967 BJ81969 AN9
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 13, 2018 12:21 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Lift for Healeys
Folks,
I need to get a lift in order to get under the various vehicles I now=20
have to maintain for myself and my mother (and bury the not-to-code and=20
ridiculously dangerous grease pit my dad installed many years ago).=C2=A0 I=
n=20
watching all the various car shows, it seems the two-post variety is the=20
most popular, but the drive-on four-post might be the most convenient=20
(except when you need to remove the wheels, obviously, or raise one of=20
the tractors).=C2=A0 So, I'm leaning toward the 2-post--any and all=20
suggestions on brand (American-made preferred) and size accepted--but=20
I'm concerned about supporting a Big Healey at four points on their=20
famously flimsy chassis rails.=C2=A0 What are you all using?=C2=A0 Any issu=
es=20
lifting a Healey by the chassis (assuming it's not fully swiss-cheesed)?
Thanks,
Bob
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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'><br>
Bob,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Usually the 2-post lift arms are too high to get under the Healey, esp=
ecially the side with the mufflers. I have a friend who has a 2-post =
lift, and he has to drive the Healey up on small wooden ramps to get it hig=
h enough for the lift pad to reach the frame rail on the other side of the =
muffler. I have a 4-post lift, and have had no troubles driving the b=
ig Healey on. My Sprite needs much more precision, as both wheels rid=
e on the inside edge of the ramps. I have a couple of small jacks with whic=
h I can jack up the car on each side to remove wheels, or I use a jack in t=
he jacking tray, pushing up on the center of a 2X6 that spans the crossmemb=
er, to lift the front or rear of the car. One other issue I have is t=
hat I have a 7' garage door, so tall vehicles, such as my VW Vanagon camper=
s, are lifted up high enough by driving onto the ramp to scrape the roof on=
the top frame of the garage door. I can get the one with 14" wheels =
onto the lift by deflating the tires to 10 psi. The one that I have w=
ith 15" wheels does not clear the door even with the tires deflated. =
Something to consider if you have a high-top van or tall truck.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Chuck Ott</div>
<div>1967 BJ8</div>
<div>1969 AN9<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Sat, Oct 13, 2018 12:21 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Lift for Healeys<br>
<br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Folks,<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I need to get a lift in order to get under the various veh=
icles I now <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">have to maintain for myself and my mother (and bury the no=
t-to-code and <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">ridiculously dangerous grease pit my dad installed many ye=
ars ago). In <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">watching all the various car shows, it seems the two-post =
variety is the <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">most popular, but the drive-on four-post might be the most=
convenient <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">(except when you need to remove the wheels, obviously, or =
raise one of <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">the tractors). So, I'm leaning toward the 2-post--an=
y and all <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">suggestions on brand (American-made preferred) and size ac=
cepted--but <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm concerned about supporting a Big Healey at four points=
on their <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">famously flimsy chassis rails. What are you all usin=
g? Any issues <br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">lifting a Healey by the chassis (assuming it's not fully s=
wiss-cheesed)?<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks,<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</font>
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