Steve,
Obviously a socket with the correct number of sides is best, but I have
used a 12 point 2-3/16" socket on the later axle several times. Because
the nut is thin, I machined the leading edge chamfer off the socket in
my lathe.
I have the two factory tools and they have a pilot that fits into the
axle to keep the socket square and centered on the nut. A definite plus.
But I can't always generate enough torque to loosen a nut with the
factory tool. Could make a longer tommy bar, but the socket works well.
When installing the nut, I make sure that the side that is stamped RH or
LH is facing out. Helps the next person that has to take the nut off.
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
On 06/09/2018 06:29 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote:
> No, it won't work as is.?? I used one of these, but modified it by
> welding on a plate with an octagonal cutout.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *melvin
> *Sent:* Friday, June 08, 2018 4:01 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] rear axle wheel bearing locknut wrench?
>
> Sears has a Craftsman 2-3/16 in. 12 pt. ? drive socket for $16.99. Would
> this work on the bearing retainer nut?
>
> Mel
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell
> at earthlink.net
>
|