Not quite,
The vent at the top should be directed upwards with the plastic cap
installed over the small plastic pipe with the ball valve inside.
Other caps, e.g. from an MGB, have a small diameter open ended metal
pipe with the ball valve inside. This should have a bit of plastic
tubing fitted to it and be connected to a dry place (boot). The same
goes for the vent at the bottom of the cast iron coil housing.
This vent is nor really important and absent in many pumps. You can seal
it without any bad effects. The bottom vent suffices.
In addition to that fit a tight rubber band over the seam between coil
housing and Bakelite/plastic cap or wrap it up with tape to keep the
moisture out.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 13-5-2018 om 17:00 schreef Bob Spidell:
> True enough about the electronic pumps.? This is what happens when
> water gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had about
> 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in
> Washington state.
>
> What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check
> ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section
> needs the plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in
> a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a
> better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from
> entering.? Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling
> the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing
> check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using
>> the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit
>> the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes
>> the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible
>> to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically
>> converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are
>> supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do,?
>> that?s it.
>>
>> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to
>> clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring
>> blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some
>> say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but
>> dismantling the pump is needed.
>>
>> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may
>> have corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the
>> pump, clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly
>> always in good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single
>> layer one. It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the
>> layers being stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very
>> carefully, especially the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a
>> smear of talcum powder between the layers.
>>
>> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process.
>>
>>
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>
>
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