Bob,
I believe that the idea with the metal pipe was to attach a plastic tube
to it and vent the pump elsewhere.
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
On 05/13/2018 11:00 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> True enough about the electronic pumps.? This is what happens when water
> gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had about 50K
> miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in
> Washington state.
>
> What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve
> that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the
> plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in a while, but
> IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better
> word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering.
> Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe
> off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and
> installing the plastic cap over it.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using
>> the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit
>> the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes
>> the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible
>> to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically
>> converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are
>> supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do,
>> that?s it.
>>
>> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to
>> clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring
>> blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some
>> say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but
>> dismantling the pump is needed.
>>
>> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have
>> corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump,
>> clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in
>> good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one.
>> It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being
>> stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially
>> the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder
>> between the layers.
>>
>> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process.
>>
>>
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>
>
>
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