And if memory serves, I believe Kilmartin makes a replacement front
crossmember, along with just about every other sheet metal part you can name.
Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2018 2:25 PM
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis thickness.
The dent in the cross member was most likely caused by jacking up the car with
a floor jack and not putting a piece of wood on the jack. Unless the dent is in
the front of the beam. I have seen videos of folks using a slide hammer to pull
out the dents. Cars were 5/64th a new Jule frame is 8/64th. so thicker.
I have also seen folks cut out the dented part, create a seam weld to replicate
the original on a thicker piece and weld it back it grinding down the patch
weld and painting it over to look stock.
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
_______ _______
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
(_________________________)
BT7 engine and disk brakes
1967 MGB <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
Ever since I?ve owned my 3000 it?s had a nasty dent in the front crossbeam of
the chassis. That would be the one near the bottom of the radiator. In the
car?s history file there is reference to a serious grounding on a rock whilst
driving down a track in Spain.
Be that as it may, I?ve got the car up on a set of drive-on then jack up ramps
at the moment and seeing that dent has determined me to get something done
about it.
Solution one:- cut out the bent bit and weld in a new piece.
Solution two:- clean up the area and weld a plate over the whole cross beam
thus giving it additional strength etc.
What gauge is the chassis? I?d be putting something no thinner than the
existing and very probably a tad thicker. But I need to know the start position?
Thanks,
Simon
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