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Hi Dave,
Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to steel =
bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original components.=
=20
I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel to r=
ubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.
Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin laye=
r and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although very old=
.
Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine mou=
nt rubber blocks are not uncommon.=20
Just my observations.=20
Michael S=20
BN1 #174
With original BSF thread engine mounts..
Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.
On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscust=
om.com> wrote:
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it's life time. As such
it hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from
the mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to
reattach the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber
buffer....
=20
dp
=20
=20
On 11/12/2016 5:24 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts as
well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that
reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new
rubber parts should be date coded.
=20
=20
From:
Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of
Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Mounts
=C2=A0
=20
=20
=20
The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose
engine I am overhauling--had the
=20
rubber part separating from their metal backing.=C2=A0 This
didn't surprise=20
me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However,
I got under=20
the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating
as well,=20
and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on
them.=C2=A0=C2=A0=20
Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from
contemporary=20
suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality,
durable=20
engine mounts for Big Healeys?
=20
TIA,
=20
Bob
=20
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
=20
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
orterscustom.com
=20
=20
--=20
Dave Porter
Porter Custom Bicycles
2909 Arno St. NE
Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-352-1378
Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
=20
=20
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<html><head></head><body><p dir="auto" style=" text-align: left; margin-top:
25px; margin-bottom: 25px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color:
black; background-color: white ">Hi Dave,<br>
Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to steel
bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original components. <br>
I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel to
rubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.<br>
Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin layer
and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although very old.<br>
Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine mount
rubber blocks are not uncommon. <br>
Just my observations. <br>
Michael S <br>
BN1 #174<br>
With original BSF thread engine mounts..<br><br></p>
<p dir="auto" style=" text-align: left; margin-top: 25px; margin-bottom: 25px;
font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; background-color: white
">Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.<br>
</p>
<br><br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, "David Porter"
<span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com";
target="_blank">frogeye@porterscustom.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc
solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="3D"ltr"">
<meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type">
<p>Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it's life time. As such
it hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from
the mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to
reattach the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber
buffer....</p>
<p>dp<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/12/2016 5:24 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:DM3PR19MB056928F8A0CDBA3C0F070C9EA5BD0@DM3PR19MB0569.namprd19.prod.outlook.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Exchange Server">
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<style><!-- .EmailQuote { margin-left: 1pt; padding-left: 4pt;
border-left: #800000 2px solid; } --></style>
<meta content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<style type="text/css" style="">
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p
{margin-top:0;
margin-bottom:0}
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<div dir="ltr">
<div id="x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir="ltr" style="font-size:12pt;
color:#000000;
font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts as
well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that
reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new
rubber parts should be date coded.</p>
</div>
<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
on behalf of
Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div>
<font size="2"><span style="font-size:10pt;">
<div class="PlainText">The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose
engine I am overhauling--had the
<br>
rubber part separating from their metal backing. This
didn't surprise <br>
me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However,
I got under <br>
the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating
as well, <br>
and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on
them. <br>
Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from
contemporary <br>
suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality,
durable <br>
engine mounts for Big Healeys?<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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</blockquote>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Dave Porter
Porter Custom Bicycles
2909 Arno St. NE
Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-352-1378
Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.porterbikes.com/";>www.porterbikes.com/</a>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
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