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Dan:
It depends. I run 72 spoke chrome wheels on both Healeys. The tri-carb =
has approx. 10 year old Daytons =E2=80=93 tubeless - on it. =
I=E2=80=99ve never has a problem with them needing to be trued, and they =
are well sealed =E2=80=93 no air leaks in 25 =E2=80=93 30 thousand =
miles. The 72 spoke wheels not only have more spokes than the =
48=E2=80=99 and 60=E2=80=99s, but the spoke is a heavier (thicker) wire =
gauge that is unlikely to need trueing in normal use. So tubeless would =
be a good gamble with these wheels.
About 3 =E2=80=934 years ago, I bought the second set of Daytons =
=E2=80=93 from Allen Hendrix for the BJ8, along with a friend who bought =
a set at the same time for his BJ8. These wheels were ordered tubeless, =
but when they were checked, they were found to be so far out of true =
from the factory that Allen had to true them all and install tubes in =
order to have them run even close to properly on the cars. It was =
obvious that Dayton was having production problems at the time, al least =
with that wheel size. It seems that the MWS wheels are built to a much =
better quality standard these days. I wouldn=E2=80=99t hesitate to run =
tubeless on the stronger wheels now.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
=20
From: Corning, Dan (D.C.)=20
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2016 6:57 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes & Tubes
Assuming wire wheels will at some point need broken spokes replaced and =
truing, and this breaks the tubeless seal, are tubeless wheels =
advisable?
Dan Corning
=20
=20
I appreciate your point Ira, but if you order wheels set up for tubeless =
from Dayton, they seal the bottoms of the nuts to the rim to prevent air =
leaks.
Tightening the nuts breaks the seal and then your tires lose air.
This is not to say that a failed wheel is preferable, just that fussing =
with the nuts brings on another set of problems. And, just tightening =
the nuts doesn=E2=80=99t assure that the wheel is true.
That=E2=80=99s why I=E2=80=99m asking if this is a common problem. =
Maybe I got a bad set.
=20
Charlie
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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #141100">
<DIV>Dan:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It depends. I run 72 spoke chrome wheels on both =
Healeys. The=20
tri-carb has approx. 10 year old Daytons =E2=80=93 tubeless - on =
it. I=E2=80=99ve never=20
has a problem with them needing to be trued, and they are well sealed =
=E2=80=93 no air=20
leaks in 25 =E2=80=93 30 thousand miles. The 72 spoke wheels not =
only have more=20
spokes than the 48=E2=80=99 and 60=E2=80=99s, but the spoke is a heavier =
(thicker) wire gauge=20
that is unlikely to need trueing in normal use. So tubeless would =
be a=20
good gamble with these wheels.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>About 3 =E2=80=934 years ago, I bought the second set of =
Daytons =E2=80=93 from Allen=20
Hendrix for the BJ8, along with a friend who bought a set at the same =
time for=20
his BJ8. These wheels were ordered tubeless, but when they were =
checked,=20
they were found to be so far out of true from the factory that Allen had =
to true=20
them all and install tubes in order to have them run even close to =
properly on=20
the cars. It was obvious that Dayton was having production =
problems=20
at the time, al least with that wheel size. It seems that the MWS =
wheels=20
are built to a much better quality standard these days. I =
wouldn=E2=80=99t=20
hesitate to run tubeless on the stronger wheels now.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: =
#141100">Earl=20
Kagna<BR>Victoria, B.C.<BR>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Ddcorning@ford.com=20
href=3D"mailto:dcorning@ford.com">Corning, Dan (D.C.)</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, September 10, 2016 6:57 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dhealeys@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Spokes & Tubes</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida Bright","serif"'>Assuming =
wire=20
wheels will at some point need broken spokes replaced and truing, and =
this=20
breaks the tubeless seal, are tubeless wheels =
advisable?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri","sans-serif"'><BR></SPAN><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida Bright","serif"'>Dan=20
Corning<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida =
Bright","serif"'><o:p></o:p></SPAN> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>I appreciate your point Ira, but if you order =
wheels set up=20
for tubeless from Dayton, they seal the bottoms of the nuts to the rim =
to=20
prevent air leaks.<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Tightening the nuts breaks the seal and then your =
tires lose=20
air.<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>This is not to say that a failed wheel is =
preferable, just=20
that fussing with the nuts brings on another set of problems. And, =
just=20
tightening the nuts doesn=E2=80=99t assure that the wheel is =
true.<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>That=E2=80=99s why I=E2=80=99m asking if this is a =
common problem. =20
Maybe I got a bad set.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida =
Bright","serif"'><o:p></o:p></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P=20
class=3DMsoNormal>Charlie<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></B=
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