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sexism aside, you can just use a heat gun. They are cheap and have black
handles. helpful for getting your rag top (hood) or tonneaue cover on when
its cold. I have been heat shrinking tube on my new wire harness with it to=
o
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Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
_______ _______
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
(_________________________)
BT7 engine and disk brakes
On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 7:25 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Hey guys.
> 2 quick suggestions.
> 1. The best way to find an oil leak.
> Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to
> the shops. Wave, smile.
> Start engine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum
> powder*.
> Use hairdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder.
> Apply liberally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe
> fingerprints off hairdryer and talc.
> Run until hot.
> Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to
> the highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so ma=
ny
> leaks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gaske=
t.
> *If you're single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will have some.
> 2. Anneal copper washers.
> Here's a good explanation:
> http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers
> Best
> Chris
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
> wrote:
>
> G=E2=80=99day Simon
>
> When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either side
> of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried annealin=
g
> copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a
> blob of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
> *From:* Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM
> *To:* 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor tower
>
>
> .....It=E2=80=99s the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to th=
e
> distributor tower. I guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive
> tacho guys???
>
> Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on either side of
> the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked pretty tire=
d so I
> replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn once the
> engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">sexism aside, you can just use a heat gun. They are cheap =
and have black handles. helpful for getting your rag top (hood) or tonneaue=
cover on when its cold. I have been heat shrinking tube on my new wire har=
ness with it too</div><div id=3D"DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
<table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #aaabb6">
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<td
style=3D"width:470px;padding-top:20px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;fo=
nt-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">This email has been =
sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. <a href=3D"https://www.=
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</table><a href=3D"#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" heigh=
t=3D"1"></a></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"><div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Portland,OR</div><div><span style=3D"font-family:'Tim=
es New Roman',serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 _______ =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______</span><br style=3D"font-family:'Times N=
ew Roman',serif"><span style=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman',s=
erif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br sty=
le=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:'Times New Roman',serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (____=
_____________________)</span></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
BT7 engine and disk brakes</div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 7:25 AM, Chris Dimmoc=
k <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:austin.healey@gmail.com"; target=
=3D"_blank">austin.healey@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey guys.=C2=A0</div><div>2 quick s=
uggestions.=C2=A0</div><div>1. The best way to find an oil leak.=C2=A0</div=
><div>Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads of=
f to the shops. Wave, smile.=C2=A0</div><div>Start engine to warm it up. Du=
ck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum powder*.=C2=A0</div><div>Use ha=
irdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply libe=
rally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints off=
hairdryer and talc.=C2=A0</div><div>Run until hot.=C2=A0</div><div>Have a =
beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to the high=
est point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so many lea=
ks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket.=C2=
=A0</div><div>*If you're single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will =
have some.=C2=A0</div><div>2. Anneal copper washers.=C2=A0</div><div>Here&#=
39;s a good explanation:</div><div><a href=3D"http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/r=
eference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers" target=3D"_blank">http://www.=
motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers</a></div><di=
v>Best</div><div>Chris<br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 5 Apr 2016, =
at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <<a href=3D"mailto:greylinn@ozemail.com=
.au" target=3D"_blank">greylinn@ozemail.com.au</a>> wrote:<br><br></div>=
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000">
<div>G=E2=80=99day Simon</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced =
either side=20
of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried anneal=
ing=20
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with=
a blob=20
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Cheers</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Peter</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibr=
i";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div style=3D"FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" href=3D"mailto:=
simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" target=3D"_blank">Simon Lachlan</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"healeys@autox.team.net" href=3D"mailto:healeys@=
autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">'Healey List'</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor=20
tower</div></div></div>
</div></div></div></blockquote><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000=
"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Cali=
bri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline=
"><div>=C2=A0.....<span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt">It=E2=80=99s=20
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor tower. =
I=20
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho guys???</span></div=
></div><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"=
;Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:i=
nline"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washe=
r on=20
either side of the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looke=
d pretty=20
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn=
once=20
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......</p></div></div></div></=
div></blockquote></div><br>_______________________________________________<=
br>
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