--===============4429292674749501049==
boundary=Apple-Mail-FC91AC8A-F5B0-4B3C-B534-C9D722495D47
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
--Apple-Mail-FC91AC8A-F5B0-4B3C-B534-C9D722495D47
charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hey guys.=20
2 quick suggestions.=20
1. The best way to find an oil leak.=20
Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to th=
e shops. Wave, smile.=20
Start engine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum po=
wder*.=20
Use hairdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply=
liberally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints=
off hairdryer and talc.=20
Run until hot.=20
Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to th=
e highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so many le=
aks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket.=20=
*If you're single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will have some.=20
2. Anneal copper washers.=20
Here's a good explanation:
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone
> On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au> wrot=
e:
>=20
> G=E2=80=99day Simon
> =20
> When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either side o=
f the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried annealing co=
pper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a blob=
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.
> =20
> Cheers
> =20
> Peter
> =20
> From: Simon Lachlan
> Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor tower
> .....It=E2=80=99s the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the=
distributor tower. I guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tach=
o guys???
> Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on either side of th=
e union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked pretty tired so I=
replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn once the e=
ngine had warmed up, but it still seeped......
--Apple-Mail-FC91AC8A-F5B0-4B3C-B534-C9D722495D47
charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey guys. </div><div id=3D"AppleM=
ailSignature">2 quick suggestions. </div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"=
>1. The best way to find an oil leak. </div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignatu=
re">Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off t=
o the shops. Wave, smile. </div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Start en=
gine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum powder*.&n=
bsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Use hairdryer to ensure suspect lea=
k area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply liberally, shaking from highest po=
int. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints off hairdryer and talc. </div=
><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Run until hot. </div><div id=3D"AppleMa=
ilSignature">Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oil=
ed talc to the highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc sho=
ws so many leaks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side pla=
te gasket. </div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">*If you're single, you c=
an just use flour. Your Mum will have some. </div><div id=3D"AppleMailS=
ignature">2. Anneal copper washers. </div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature=
">Here's a good explanation:</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><a href=3D"=
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers">h=
ttp://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers</a>=
</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Best</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature=
">Chris<br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Pete=
r & Veronica <<a href=3D"mailto:greylinn@ozemail.com.au">greylinn@oze=
mail.com.au</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type">=
<meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)">
<style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
text-decoration:underline;}
span.EmailStyle17
{mso-style-type:personal-compose;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:windowtext;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>G=E2=80=99day Simon</div>
<div> </div>
<div>When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either si=
de=20
of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried anneali=
ng=20
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a bl=
ob=20
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Cheers</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Peter</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Ca=
libri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLA=
Y: inline">
<div style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<div> </div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style=3D"font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"simon.lachlan@home=
call.co.uk" href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">Simon Lachlan</a> <=
/div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"healeys@autox.team.net" href=3D"mailto:healeys@a=
utox.team.net">'Healey List'</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor=20
tower</div></div></div>
</div></div></div></blockquote><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><di=
v style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calib=
ri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: i=
nline"><div> .....<span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font=
-size: 11pt;">It=E2=80=99s=20
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor tower. I=
=20
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho guys???</span></div>=
</div><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: &q=
uot;Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; D=
ISPLAY: inline"><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p></o:=
p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer=
on=20
either side of the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked=
pretty=20
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn o=
nce=20
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......</p></div></div></div></d=
iv></blockquote></body></html>=
--Apple-Mail-FC91AC8A-F5B0-4B3C-B534-C9D722495D47--
--===============4429292674749501049==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============4429292674749501049==--
|