To: | healeys@autox.team.net |
---|---|
Subject: | Re: [Healeys] Trunk/boot lip rivets |
From: | Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> |
Date: | Wed, 27 Jan 2016 20:44:15 -0800 |
Delivered-to: | mharc@autox.team.net |
Delivered-to: | healeys@autox.team.net |
References: | <1252313731.1279664.1453938005861.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1252313731.1279664.1453938005861.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> |
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Clever! Better get a patent (quick). Bob On 1/27/2016 3:40 PM, Andy Thorp wrote: > Thanks to everyone who replied with pics and ideas for this job. > > I ended up modifying a G clamp similar to one somebody sent pics of and it > worked very well. It was a bit clumsy to use but once I got the hang of > getting the metal clamped up fully first it was relatively straightforward. > The important features are having about 1 1/4" narrow rod that goes up inside > the shroud lip and the same coming down from the top and fixed so it can't > rotate. The RHS was a bit overkill in hindsight. > > The rivets I had were 1/4" long A125F0250A from rivetsonline.com and if I > were to do the job again I'd probably go with 3/8" long given that some of > the rivet gets squashed into the [now] slightly oversize holes. The amount of > force required to set the rivets is no more than is required to tighten up a > G clamp firmly on a piece of metal so it isn't really much effort once the > tool is made. > > Next job, painting. > > Cheers, > Andy. > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys |
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