Andy,
I wouldn´t try solid rivets. I have two Concours Austin-Healeys and I use pop
rivets. I put some JB Weld in the small hole on top and sand/polish them before
painting. You really need to climb in the boot or lay down under the car to
really realise they are pop rivets and not solid ones. The rivetted lib at the
bottom and on the boot opening looks extremely flat, no dents at all, caused by
the rivetting work.
Need to say I am living in Europe and we have different rules for Concours than
in North America.
Josef Eckert
Germany
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Trunk/boot lip rivets
Datum: 2016-01-08T22:27:52+0100
Von: "Andy Thorp" <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
An: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thanks for the replies, I have a few ideas to try now.
First is to try one of the pneumatic aircraft riveters, the reason I didn't
consider this previously is that I had misunderstood how they are supposed to
work. I thought the cupped setter was to make the rivet stem rounded once
installed but this isn't right. For the flat head rivets, they are driven from
the headed side and bucked on the stem, rather than putting the buck on the
head and driving the hammer into the stem to secure it. There may be room to
get one of the narrow bucks inside the trunk lip so that will be the first
attempt. This video helps explain things a bit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM
Second attempt is to make a set of squeezer pliers out of C-type vise grip
pliers and weld on some flat ends to squeeze up the rivets, perhaps with some
percussive assistance.
"The real question comes down to
is it work a couple hundred dollars to be â??historically
correctâ?? for a few rivets? Only you can make that
decision. "
It isn't so much a matter of being historically correct, it is more a case of
having to look at something for the next forty odd years and wish I'd taken a
little more time to do it properly that one day back in 2016. The square headed
rivets look very purposeful.
Andy.
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