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Mike, wouldn't regular polyurethane give the same result? With the age of =
the wheel, there appears to be no clear coat left on the steering wheel.
I wonder if I can just clean it with mild steel wool and bleach and then po=
lyurethane?
Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD
While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list, I rar=
ely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do sometime scan=
through the subject before filing the digest email. I just happened to do =
that and noticed the discussion about steering wheel refinishing.
There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into all kin=
ds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that. But first some comment=
s about the original poster=92s wheel. It is indeed a Derrington type, but =
it is very difficult to know whether it came from Derrington or from anothe=
r of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly one of the makers and they did s=
ell wheels as Derringtons. I can usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanshi=
p if not the quality of the ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a spo=
ke is an indication of Moto-Lita. In this case it is something else that I=
find unusual. Notice how the nine mounting holes are misaligned with the s=
pokes. That was either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel so=
ld without holes which allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign intent=
ionally... or accidentally. More can be read about Derrington in my blog h=
ere, although the information is not exhaustive: http://www.pbase.com/mdlem=
pert/victor
Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time and e=
xposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in spots as expl=
ained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to restore or replac=
e the rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor Derrington for a Heale=
y and am working on another for a Jag XK. The Healey rim was worth saving b=
ecause it was in relatively good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced most=
ly due to bad work performed earlier. The old wood, mahogany and obeche, e=
specially the obeche colors gets muddled over time and no longer displays t=
he original contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an obviously old=
and original rim.
I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as a sc=
raping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not to damag=
e =96 you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in multiple dire=
ctions, so care is needed. Only after fully removing the finish will I do =
any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove much wood. I do most =
of the sanding by spinning the wheel on a lathe, but obviously not the rear=
where the grips appear. In this case with the Healey version, we went thro=
ugh more heroic efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a toothbrush=
using ammonia and then bleach two times. Still, the colors were muddled, b=
ut better. After neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just to smooth=
any raised grain, it was given the new finish. I have read that the origin=
al finishing was french polish, or at least at some point in time (Derringt=
on, not necessarily Moto-Lita). While you can select whatever method you a=
re comfortable or desire, I use a UV cure clear finish. Over the years I=92=
ve used a number of finishes, but for the amount of work I do now I have mo=
ved to this UV system which I find to be excellent in every way. I would al=
so recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not topcoat also. It is a wi=
pe on tung and resin mix. I have also used General Finishes water based (on=
ly after the Waterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after =
the sealer has dried fully. It typically took five coats with sanding in be=
tween. It dries quickly and feels great when done. I always polished the ri=
m on the lathe after finishing to smooth out perfectly and give the desired=
amount of shine/sheen.
This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior to the=
metal being cleaned and final polishing: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/s=
malley
Happy New Year
Mike Lempert
Lempert Wheels
=9156 BN2
=9159 BN7
=9160 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
visioncenterpc.com
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<div>Mike, wouldn't regular polyurethane give the same result? With t=
he age of the wheel, there appears to be no clear coat left on the steering=
wheel. </div>
<div>I wonder if I can just clean it with mild steel wool and bleach and th=
en polyurethane?<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Jan 1, 2016, at 2:29 PM, "<a href=3D"mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.net"=
>mlempert@bellsouth.net</a>" <<a href=3D"mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.=
net">mlempert@bellsouth.net</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list, =
I rarely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do sometime=
scan through the subject before filing the digest email. I just happened t=
o do that and noticed the discussion
about steering wheel refinishing. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into al=
l kinds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that. But first so=
me comments about the original poster=92s wheel. It is indeed a Derrington =
type, but it is very difficult to know
whether it came from Derrington or from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita=
was certainly one of the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I=
can usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the quality of the =
ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned
with a spoke is an indication of Moto-Lita. In this case it is somet=
hing else that I find unusual. Notice how the nine mounting holes are misal=
igned with the spokes. That was either a very poorly done job from new or i=
t was a wheel sold without holes which
allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign intentionally... or accident=
ally. More can be read about Derrington in my blog here, although the=
information is not exhaustive:
<a title=3D"http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor"; href=3D"http://www.pbase=
.com/mdlempert/victor">
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor</a> </div>
<div> </div>
<div>Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time =
and exposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in spots as=
explained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to restore or r=
eplace the rim. I have recently
completed one rare Victor Derrington for a Healey and am working on anothe=
r for a Jag XK. The Healey rim was worth saving because it was in relativel=
y good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due to bad work perform=
ed earlier. The old wood, mahogany
and obeche, especially the obeche colors gets muddled over time and no lon=
ger displays the original contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an=
obviously old and original rim.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as=
a scraping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not to =
damage =96 you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in multiple=
directions, so care is needed. Only
after fully removing the finish will I do any amount of sanding, and never=
so much as to remove much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the w=
heel on a lathe, but obviously not the rear where the grips appear. In this=
case with the Healey version, we
went through more heroic efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a =
toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach two times. Still, the colors were =
muddled, but better. After neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just=
to smooth any raised grain, it
was given the new finish. I have read that the original finishing was fren=
ch polish, or at least at some point in time (Derrington, not necessarily M=
oto-Lita). While you can select whatever method you are comfortable o=
r desire, I use a UV cure clear finish.
Over the years I=92ve used a number of finishes, but for the amount of wor=
k I do now I have moved to this UV system which I find to be excellent in e=
very way. I would also recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not topc=
oat also. It is a wipe on tung and
resin mix. I have also used General Finishes water based (only after the W=
aterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after the sealer has=
dried fully. It typically took five coats with sanding in between. It drie=
s quickly and feels great when done.
I always polished the rim on the lathe after finishing to smooth out perfe=
ctly and give the desired amount of shine/sheen.
</div>
<div> </div>
<div>This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior t=
o the metal being cleaned and final polishing:
<a title=3D"http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley"; href=3D"http://www.pbas=
e.com/mdlempert/smalley">
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley</a></div>
<div> </div>
<div>Happy New Year</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Mike Lempert</div>
<div>Lempert Wheels</div>
<div>=9156 BN2</div>
<div>=9159 BN7</div>
<div>=9160 Bugeye</div>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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