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Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 02:11:35 +1100
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BBCBD14C-7BD5-4D12-99F2-DA1F2650669F@visioncenterpc.com> <56856918.1060107@chello.nl> <000001d1441c$ab9cad40$02d607c0$@videotron.ca> <239ADBB0-AF75-4B3C-BA9C-1912D7010162@visioncenterpc.com> <CAKkXjqPNHmvtim92ccsVfRUC1T-WwgvcCKtdSPs8A9kGS-9-NA@mail.gmail.com> <56865354.70503@chello.nl>
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I think the answer is an orange.=20
Because a motorcycle doesn't have doors.=20
Just as relevant.=20
;-)

Sent from my iPhone

> On 1 Jan 2016, at 9:22 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>=20
> Raw linseed oil will dry. I have polished several mahogany tables and chai=
rs using it when I restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th century ma=
hogany furniture was polished using this method, in most cases this was late=
r replaced using French polishing with shellac, being quicker and giving a v=
ery high gloss finish but needed more skill. The trick is to apply a very ve=
ry thin layer rubbing it on using a cloth over several weeks/months. It will=
 give a very nice satin finish.
> If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up in a stic=
ky mess that has to be removed before you start again.
> To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.
>=20
> Kees Oudesluijs
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:
>> Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled linsee=
d oil. =20
>>=20
>> On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.co=
m> wrote:
>>> I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Than=
ks for the input.=20
>>>=20
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> Chris Scholz OD
>>>=20
>>> On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <douglas.barker@videotron.ca> w=
rote:
>>>=20
>>>> HELLO
>>>>=20
>>>> I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:
>>>>=20
>>>> My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood
>>>>=20
>>>> Please define =E2=80=93White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>>>>=20
>>>> Also PU solvent based PU?
>>>>=20
>>>> Thanks-everything else I agree with
>>>>=20
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oude=
sluys
>>>> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
>>>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>>>>=20
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated.=
 I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a=
 rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
>>>> Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may ha=
ve been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find a=
nything.
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint=
. If that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
>>>> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white=
 spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is ev=
en and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material a=
s possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush w=
ith PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with ab=
out 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let e=
very coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in b=
etween the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but o=
thers prefer gloss.
>>>> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil=
 and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
>>>> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be u=
sed as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
>>>> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-=
Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>>>>=20
>>>> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and als=
o using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be tha=
t in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>>>>=20
>>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>> =20
>>>> Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
>>>>=20
>>>> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the l=
ooks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would l=
ike to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the meta=
l rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are t=
hese maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were bl=
ack plastic.=20
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>>> =20
>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> =20
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coude=
sluijs@chello.nl
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> -----
>>>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 1=
2/31/15
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>>>=20
>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>=20
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drsch=
olz@visioncenterpc.com
>>>=20
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>>=20
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyrac=
er466@gmail.com
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>=20
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesl=
uijs@chello.nl
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van uitgifte: 12/=
31/15
>>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>=20
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>=20
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ealey@gmail.com
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I think the answer is an orange.&nbsp;=
</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Because a motorcycle doesn't have doors=
.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Just as relevant.&nbsp;</div><di=
v id=3D"AppleMailSignature">;-)<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 1=
 Jan 2016, at 9:22 PM, Oudesluys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl=
">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite=
"><div>
 =20
    <meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type"=
>
 =20
 =20
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">Raw linseed oil will dry. I have
      polished several mahogany tables and chairs using it when I
      restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th century mahogany
      furniture was polished using this method, in most cases this was
      later replaced using French polishing with shellac, being quicker
      and giving a very high gloss finish but needed more skill. The
      trick is to apply a very very thin layer rubbing it on using a
      cloth over several weeks/months. It will give a very nice satin
      finish.<br>
      If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up
      in a sticky mess that has to be removed before you start again.<br>
      To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite=3D"mid:CAKkXjqPNHmvtim92ccsVfRUC1T-WwgvcCKtdSPs8A9kGS-9=
-NA@mail.gmail.com" type=3D"cite">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"Context-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-=
8">
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries.
        Check out boiled linseed oil.&nbsp; <br>
      </div>
      <div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris
          Scholz <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"m=
ailto:drscholz@visioncenterpc.com" target=3D"_blank">drscholz@visioncenterpc=
.com</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote">
            <div dir=3D"auto">
              <div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take
                it from there. Thanks for the input.&nbsp;<br>
                <br>
                Sent from my iPhone
                <div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
              </div>
              <div><br>
                On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a moz-do-not-s=
end=3D"true" href=3D"mailto:douglas.barker@videotron.ca"; target=3D"_blank"><=
/a><a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:douglas.barker@video=
tron.ca">douglas.barker@videotron.ca</a>&gt;
                wrote:<br>
                <br>
              </div>
              <blockquote type=3D"cite">
                <div>
                  <div>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>HELLO</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking of
                        doing mine also so this is good timing:</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe
                        aMotta but much lighter wood</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Please define =E2=80=93Whit=
e
                        spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based PU?</=
span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything else I
                        agree with</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><spa=
n>
                            Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"mai=
lto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces=
@autox.team.net</a>]
                            <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
                            <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015
                            12:43 PM<br>
                            <b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"m=
ailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><b=
r>
                            <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
                            steering wheel</span></p>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
                    <div>
                      <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the
                        steering wheel does look very nice and
                        patinated. I would not do anything to it apart
                        from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough
                        cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in
                        some linseed oil.<br>
                        Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside of
                        the aluminium. It may have been coated only with
                        a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot
                        find anything.<br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
                        Depending on the age of the wheel it could be
                        coated with acrylic paint. If that is the case
                        this must be completely removed before
                        repainting.<br>
                        Start with degreasing the wood very carefully
                        and thoroughly with white spirits. Sand very
                        lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the
                        colour is even and all lacquer is removed but
                        remove as little wood/aluminium material as
                        possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint
                        using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
                        clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors)
                        with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so
                        the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
                        thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with
                        400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat
                        wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others
                        prefer gloss.<br>
                        Another method is applying many very very thin
                        coats of raw linseed oil and leave every coat to
                        dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
                        Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is
                        used but walnut can be used as well. Lighter
                        woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany
                        ply.<br>
                        It is a good idea to try out the process first
                        on an old battered Moto-Lita wheel (same
                        manufacturer).<br>
                        <br>
                        I have done many steering wheels using PU
                        solvent based lacquer and also using raw linseed
                        oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback
                        may be that in the beginning your hands will
                        smell of linseed oil.<br>
                        <br>
                        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                        &nbsp;<br>
                        Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</p>
                    </div>
                    <blockquote>
                      <pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas o=
n how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood is in=
 very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to star=
t sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kin=
d of wood they used?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not origin=
al. I see the original wheels were black plastic. </pre>
                      <pre>&nbsp;</pre>
                      <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
                      </p>
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pre>
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