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I got mine from MacGregor called Bristleflex. Although more money, they
stay on unlike some others.
Elton
On 6/27/2015 9:26 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote:
> What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround)
> that stays put on a BJ8 and other models?
>
> > From: healeys-request@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600
> >
> > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> > healeys@autox.team.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > healeys-request@autox.team.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > healeys-owner@autox.team.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)
> > 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)
> > 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)
> > 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)
> > 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> > 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
> > 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500
> > From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID: <026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to
> the shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using
> heat and quenching with ice water or dry ice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > 60 BT7
> >
> > 63 BJ7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Curtis Arndt
> > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
> > To: Michael Salter
> > Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> >
> >
> >
> > Micheal,
> >
> > My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
> >
> > Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
> >
> >
> >
> > This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast
> iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I
> can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt
> or stud then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
> >
> >
> >
> > I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and
> then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating
> solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the
> needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY
> rock it back and forth ever so slightly. If you get any movement
> whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you're patient.
> Repeat the heating and shock cooling process followed by the locking
> pliers as many times as it takes. With patience and luck the broken
> stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther with each application of
> heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the way.
> >
> >
> >
> > I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were
> frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ?? of stud proud of
> the manifold. All seven came out using this process.
> >
> >
> >
> > This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are
> careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter
> >
> > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make
> things easier.
> >
> > If all else fails new brackets..
> >
> > Michael S
> >
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com
> >
> > I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it
> went off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to
> extract them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through
> each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being
> subjected to massive amount of force.
> > Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very
> tedious repair.
> > Michael S.
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/8f09ebc5/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
> > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> > Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -
> > http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
> >
> > Best of Luck,
> > Rick Neville
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter
> <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make
> things
> > > easier.
> > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > >
> > > Michael S
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael
> <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it
> went off
> > >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to
> extract
> > >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right
> through each
> > >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being
> subjected to
> > >> massive amount of force.
> > >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very
> tedious
> > >> repair.
> > >> Michael S.
> > >> BN1 #174
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/c3abbf74/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
> > To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> cushioned
> > the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:
> >
> <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html>
> > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> >
> <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj>
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/4e20450d/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700
> > From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> > To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID: <kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611@email.android.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> >
> >
> > Food for thought.
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> >
> > -------- Original message --------
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
> > Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00)
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:?http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj?
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/073f9de4/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000
> > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> > To: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID: <SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0@phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there should be
> no problem there. I've seen a website for Vandervell, but they are
> probably owned by someone else now. If they maintained their old
> quality and if they still make the right bearings they would be the go
> to source. As it is it's a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and
> see what they claim.
> > My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of service wouldn't
> quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the 88.5 mm pistons. I like
> the DW route because it allows them to use lighter pistons and more
> modern metric rings they say will cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't
> change unless I do cut the pistons and then it won't increase much.
> I'm waiting to hear what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to
> be decked too a lot of things might change.I haven't micced the old
> head gasket, but i'll need to compare it to the new one at some point.
> Even though I don't think I'll be driving it at high revs very much
> I'm still going to change out to the narrow drive belt just because I
> can incorporate a vibration damper.
> >
> >
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000
> > From: varley@cosmos.net.au
> > To: ynotink@msn.com
> > CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems undersize
> > cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a problem many
> > years ago but I believe there are no problems with them now.
> > Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but they would
> > be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft iron, my car
> > had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only done 8000
> > miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it back to 3 1/2
> > using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used semi dished
> > plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia. They give a
> > final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no problem
> > with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it would only be
> > a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick composite
> > material with steel rings around the bores. As long as the pistons
> > are no more than flush with the top of the bore you should have no
> > problem.
> >
> > Hope it all works out
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Larry Varley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B
> > LAWRENCE wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the advise Larry,
> >
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I
> > don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed to be
> > or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using
> > Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I
> > suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they are
> > too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS
> > gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the top
> > of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to
> > clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty
> > thick there.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket
> > (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same
> > dimension) and check for interference and clearances with some
> > modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to head
> > dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing
> > clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any
> > information on that or on any other tricks or rules of thumb I
> > could use the info.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it
> > freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel the
> > need to change.
> >
> >
> >
> > Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a
> > lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed joints was
> > actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of the
> > head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully sealed
> > although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal. I
> > think I overextended the garter spring while I was assembling
> > it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to manipulate
> > the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before I lay
> > it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think
> > about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on the end
> > plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most don't.
> > Extra support there would be a good thing.
> >
> >
> >
> > Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running
> > into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine
> > bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King, but I
> > don't know anything about them and I would want the same for
> > the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or similar
> > quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen don't
> > include the A90 engine.
> >
> >
> >
> > Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the
> > help I can get.
> >
> >
> >
> > Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working on
> > the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to uphold and
> > so far mine is falling short.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> > BN1 #554
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/94f9bd54/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700
> > From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] o/d again
> > Message-ID: <20150627030425.8371.qmail@server278.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type A I am
> working on. all eight springs are the exact same length. 4 are yellow
> tipped and 4 are red tipped. the red tipped ones appear weaker than
> the yellow tipped ones. did laycock come up with a new technical
> change and not notify triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about
> short and long springs. the springs that were in the o/d are exactly
> like the ones I received today. while perusing a type A repair video I
> noticed that the guy doing the repair had a set of springs he was
> going to install that had red and yellow painted tips. appears to me
> that the weaker springs compress to the same tension as the stronger
> ones to replace short/long springs. can anyone clue me in as to what
> is happening.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> > To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>, Larry Varley
> > <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID:
> > <1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/f15139c9/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys mailing list
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > ***************************************
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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I got mine from MacGregor called Bristleflex. Although more money,
they stay on unlike some others.<br>
Elton<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/27/2015 9:26 PM, John and Judy
Carter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:SNT151-W56D574457735697B7B8753CEAB0@phx.gbl"
type="cite">
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<div dir="ltr">What is the name and the source for the rubber door
trim(surround) that stays put on a BJ8 and other models?<br>
<br>
<div>> From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys-request@autox.team.net">healeys-request@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181<br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600<br>
> <br>
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <br>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help'
to<br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys-request@autox.team.net">healeys-request@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <br>
> You can reach the person managing the list at<br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys-owner@autox.team.net">healeys-owner@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <br>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is
more specific<br>
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Today's Topics:<br>
> <br>
> 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)<br>
> 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)<br>
> 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)<br>
> 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)<br>
> 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
> 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)<br>
> 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)<br>
> <br>
> <br>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 1<br>
> Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500<br>
> From: "Randy Dickson"
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com"><rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com></a><br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net"><Healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas<br>
> Message-ID:
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com"><026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com></a><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
> <br>
> Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt
combo to the shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out
whilst using heat and quenching with ice water or dry ice.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Randy <br>
> <br>
> 60 BT7<br>
> <br>
> 63 BJ7<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> From: Healeys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
On
Behalf Of Curtis Arndt<br>
> Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM<br>
> To: Michael Salter<br>
> Cc: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Micheal,<br>
> <br>
> My short article on removing broken studs from
Manifolds...<br>
> <br>
> Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and
studs from cast iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in
a manifold, as long as I can get a small pair of long nose
locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud then the rest is
typically easy, if you are patient.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to
cherry red and then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by
some penetrating solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I
carefully clamp the needle nose locking pliers on the end of
the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth ever so
slightly. If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth
the rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat the heating and
shock cooling process followed by the locking pliers as many
times as it takes. With patience and luck the broken stud will
progressively unscrew a bit farther with each application of
heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the way. <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8
studs were frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ??
of stud proud of the manifold. All seven came out using this
process.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY
IF you are careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter
<<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"><mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com></a>
> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already
tried without success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to
be the order of the day..unfortunately those pins are case
hardened which won't make things easier.<br>
> <br>
> If all else fails new brackets..<br>
> <br>
> Michael S<br>
> <br>
> BN1 #174<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael
<<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com></a>
> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1
when it went off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would
come loose.<br>
> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time
trying to extract them without wreaking the mounts on the
frame.<br>
> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled
right through each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move
despite being subjected to massive amount of force.<br>
> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for
a very tedious repair.<br>
> Michael S.<br>
> BN1 #174<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> -- <br>
> <br>
> If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an
electrical problem.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> -------------- next part --------------<br>
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> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 2<br>
> Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400<br>
> From: HealeyRick <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeyrik@gmail.com"><healeyrik@gmail.com></a><br>
> To: Michael Salter <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"><michaelsalter@gmail.com></a><br>
> Cc: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">"Healeys@autox.team.net"</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net"><Healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas<br>
> Message-ID:<br>
>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA@mail.gmail.com"><CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA@mail.gmail.com></a><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
> <br>
> If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -<br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.brokentap.com/services.html">http://www.brokentap.com/services.html</a><br>
> <br>
> Best of Luck,<br>
> Rick Neville<br>
> <br>
> On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"><michaelsalter@gmail.com></a><br>
> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already
tried without<br>
> > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be
the order of the<br>
> > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened
which won't make things<br>
> > easier.<br>
> > If all else fails new brackets..<br>
> ><br>
> > Michael S<br>
> > BN1 #174<br>
> ><br>
> > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><michael.salter@gmail.com></a>
wrote:<br>
> ><br>
> >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of
this BN1 when it went off<br>
> >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come
loose.<br>
> >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount
of time trying to extract<br>
> >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.<br>
> >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat,
drilled right through each<br>
> >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move
despite being subjected to<br>
> >> massive amount of force.<br>
> >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis
makes for a very tedious<br>
> >> repair.<br>
> >> Michael S.<br>
> >> BN1 #174<br>
> >><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> > --<br>
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an
electrical problem.*<br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
> > Support Team.Net <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> > Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> > Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
> ><br>
> > <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> > <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> ><br>
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
> >
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com</a><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> -------------- next part --------------<br>
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> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 3<br>
> Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400<br>
> From: HealeyRick <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeyrik@gmail.com"><healeyrik@gmail.com></a><br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">"healeys@autox.team.net"</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
> Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny<br>
> Message-ID:<br>
>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw@mail.gmail.com"><CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw@mail.gmail.com></a><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
> <br>
> "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ
breasts which cushioned<br>
> the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"<br>
> <br>
> Read more:<br>
>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html"><http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html></a><br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj">http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj</a><br>
>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj"><http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj></a><br>
> -------------- next part --------------<br>
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
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> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 4<br>
> Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700<br>
> From: Michael Oritt <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a><br>
> To: HealeyRick <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeyrik@gmail.com"><healeyrik@gmail.com></a>,
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">"healeys@autox.team.net"</a><br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny<br>
> Message-ID:
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611@email.android.com"><kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611@email.android.com></a><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Food for thought.<br>
> Best--Michael Oritt<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE
smartphone<br>
> <br>
> -------- Original message --------<br>
> From: HealeyRick <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeyrik@gmail.com"><healeyrik@gmail.com></a> <br>
> Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00) <br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <br>
> Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny <br>
> <br>
> "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ
breasts which cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed
into her"<br>
> <br>
> Read
more:?<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj">http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj</a>?<br>
> <br>
> -------------- next part --------------<br>
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
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> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 5<br>
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000<br>
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:ynotink@msn.com"><ynotink@msn.com></a><br>
> To: Larry Varley <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au"><varley@cosmos.net.au></a><br>
> Cc: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">"healeys@autox.team.net"</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again<br>
> Message-ID:
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0@phx.gbl"><SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0@phx.gbl></a><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
> <br>
> Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there
should be no problem there. I've seen a website for
Vandervell, but they are probably owned by someone else now.
If they maintained their old quality and if they still make
the right bearings they would be the go to source. As it is
it's a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and see what they
claim.<br>
> My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of
service wouldn't quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the
88.5 mm pistons. I like the DW route because it allows them to
use lighter pistons and more modern metric rings they say will
cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't change unless I do cut the
pistons and then it won't increase much. I'm waiting to hear
what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to be decked
too a lot of things might change.I haven't micced the old head
gasket, but i'll need to compare it to the new one at some
point. Even though I don't think I'll be driving it at high
revs very much I'm still going to change out to the narrow
drive belt just because I can incorporate a vibration damper.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000<br>
> From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au">varley@cosmos.net.au</a><br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ynotink@msn.com">ynotink@msn.com</a><br>
> CC: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems
undersize<br>
> cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a
problem many<br>
> years ago but I believe there are no problems with them
now.<br>
> Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but
they would<br>
> be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft
iron, my car<br>
> had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only
done 8000<br>
> miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it
back to 3 1/2<br>
> using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used
semi dished<br>
> plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia.
They give a<br>
> final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no
problem<br>
> with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it
would only be<br>
> a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick
composite<br>
> material with steel rings around the bores. As long as
the pistons<br>
> are no more than flush with the top of the bore you
should have no<br>
> problem.<br>
> <br>
> Hope it all works out<br>
> <br>
> Regards<br>
> <br>
> Larry Varley<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B<br>
> LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Thanks for the advise Larry,<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I<br>
> don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed
to be<br>
> or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using<br>
> Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I<br>
> suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they
are<br>
> too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS<br>
> gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the
top<br>
> of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to<br>
> clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty<br>
> thick there.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket<br>
> (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same<br>
> dimension) and check for interference and clearances with
some<br>
> modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to
head<br>
> dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing<br>
> clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any<br>
> information on that or on any other tricks or rules of
thumb I<br>
> could use the info.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it<br>
> freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel
the<br>
> need to change.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a<br>
> lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed
joints was<br>
> actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of
the<br>
> head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully
sealed<br>
> although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal.
I<br>
> think I overextended the garter spring while I was
assembling<br>
> it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to
manipulate<br>
> the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before
I lay<br>
> it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think<br>
> about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on
the end<br>
> plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most
don't.<br>
> Extra support there would be a good thing.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running<br>
> into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine<br>
> bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King,
but I<br>
> don't know anything about them and I would want the same
for<br>
> the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or
similar<br>
> quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen
don't<br>
> include the A90 engine.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the<br>
> help I can get.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working
on<br>
> the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to
uphold and<br>
> so far mine is falling short.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Bill Lawrence<br>
> BN1 #554<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> -------------- next part --------------<br>
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>
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> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 6<br>
> Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700<br>
> From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?="
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeymanjim@hansencc.net"><healeymanjim@hansencc.net></a><br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
> Subject: [Healeys] o/d again<br>
> Message-ID:
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:20150627030425.8371.qmail@server278.com"><20150627030425.8371.qmail@server278.com></a><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
> <br>
> just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type
A I am working on. all eight springs are the exact same
length. 4 are yellow tipped and 4 are red tipped. the red
tipped ones appear weaker than the yellow tipped ones. did
laycock come up with a new technical change and not notify
triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about short and long
springs. the springs that were in the o/d are exactly like the
ones I received today. while perusing a type A repair video I
noticed that the guy doing the repair had a set of springs he
was going to install that had red and yellow painted tips.
appears to me that the weaker springs compress to the same
tension as the stronger ones to replace short/long springs.
can anyone clue me in as to what is happening.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 7<br>
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)<br>
> From: Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:ynotink@msn.com"><ynotink@msn.com></a>, Larry
Varley<br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au"><varley@cosmos.net.au></a><br>
> Cc: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again<br>
> Message-ID:<br>
>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net"><1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net></a><br>
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> <br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Subject: Digest Footer<br>
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> _______________________________________________<br>
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> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181<br>
> ***************************************<br>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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