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Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas

To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 10:39:10 -0700
Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <558c7616.c742320a.e596.ffffb73f@mx.google.com> <CAB3i7LLWwNy31WM_8LROpxnhB2qiv2SdXNXkLW2gAUiQVcV_sg@mail.gmail.com>
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Micheal,

My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...

*Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds*



This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast iron
exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I can get a
small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud then
the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.



I heat *only* the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to *cherry red* and
then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating solution
like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster".  Then I carefully clamp the needle nose
locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and
forth ever so slightly.  If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth
the rest will come, if you're patient.  Repeat the heating and shock
cooling process followed by the locking pliers as many times as it takes.
With patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit
farther with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will
unscrew all the way.


I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were frozen
and/or broken off.  Some of them had just =C2=BC=E2=80=9D of stud proud of =
the manifold.
All seven came out using this process.



This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are
careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.


On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> easier.
> If all else fails new brackets..
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote=
:
>
>> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went of=
f
>> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
>> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract
>> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
>> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each
>> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
>> massive amount of force.
>> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious
>> repair.
>> Michael S.
>> BN1 #174
>>
>
>
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
>
>
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>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Micheal,<br><br></div>My short article on removing br=
oken studs from Manifolds...<br><br>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b style>Removing Broken Studs
from Cast Iron Manifolds</b></p>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal">This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and=
 studs
from cast iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long=
 as
I can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or =
stud
then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.</p>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 </p>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal">I heat <u>only</u> the exposed stud or bolt with a t=
orch to <u>cherry
red</u> and then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating
solution like &quot;Kroil&quot; or &quot;PB Blaster&quot;.=C2=A0 Then I car=
efully
clamp the needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GEN=
TLY
rock it back and forth ever so slightly.=C2=A0 If you get any movement
whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you&#39;re patient.=C2=A0 =
Repeat
the heating and shock cooling process followed by the locking pliers as man=
y
times as it takes.=C2=A0 With patience and luck the broken stud will progre=
ssively unscrew a bit farther with each application of heat and penetrating=
 oil until it will unscrew all the way.=C2=A0 <br></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
"><br></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold wh=
ere 7 of the
8 studs were frozen and/or broken off.<span style>=C2=A0
</span>Some of them had just =C2=BC=E2=80=9D of stud proud of the manifold.=
<span style>=C2=A0 </span>All seven came out using this process.</p>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>

<p class=3D"MsoNormal">This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and=
 ONLY IF
you are careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.=C2=A0</p>

<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri,=
 Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 =
0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font=
-size:small">Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried wit=
hout success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the d=
ay..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won&#39;t make things =
easier.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If all else fails new brackets..<br><br><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-s=
erif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div=
></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><span class=3D""><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">michael.salter@gma=
il.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"=
margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div><d=
iv style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">I left the seize=
d shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off to TechnoStrip in=
 the hope that they would come loose.<br>They didn&#39;t so I&#39;ve spent =
an inordinate amount of time trying to extract them without wreaking the mo=
unts on the frame.<br>Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled =
right through each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite bein=
g subjected to massive amount of force.<br>Any ideas...damaging the mounts =
in the chassis makes for a very tedious repair.<br>Michael S.<br>BN1 #174<b=
r></div></div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br></span><sp=
an class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">-- <br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"color:black">If you =
can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve got an electrical problem.</span=
></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></di=
v>
</font></span></div>
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