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Michael,
I am well aware how a water pump is constructed and that one needs at
least one ball bearing to absorb thrust. This should be on the vane side
as that is the bearing with the lesser load and where there is no
bending force on the shaft. I fitted the needle bearing on the pulley
side as that is where the higher load and bending force from the belt
tension is.
To be able to fit a ball bearing one has to reduce the diameter of the
shaft where the bearing is seated and press fit a bush on the shaft
which will also fit the vane after the bearing is fitted. This what I
did on the first JH pump I rebuilt about 35 yrs ago as I did not have
the resources for a new pump. I expect an AH water pump is not that much
different in construction.
I did not say it is a simple job but if you know how to work on a lathe
it is not overly difficult. And if one does not have a suitable
alternative of decent quality one should use a bit of ingenuity.
The carbon seal against the sealing face of the vane is available in a
variety of sizes. If one cannot get the exact size you can make up a
bush/sleeve or enlarge the diameter in the pump house for the depth of
the seal. It is imperative that you decide on the dimensions and that
you have all the parts needed before you start.
On my JH I would now use a water pump bearing and seal from an old slant
4 Vauxhall. It is an exact fit except for the length. After all is
fitted I have to shorten the shaft at the pulley end, no problem and NOS
Vauxhall pumps for extracting the needed parts are dirt cheap and
plentyfull available. I rebuild quite a number of JH/Lotus water pumps
this way.
I am surprised that no usable alternative has been found for the AH
pumps. I cannot imagine that there is no way of getting around the
problem. A slightly different outside diameter can be addressed to in a
rebuild by fitting a sleeve or reaming the housing and the same goes for
the shaft diameter/vane/pulley.
As for lubricating the bearings of a water pump, there is often some
mentioning about a certain amount of strokes of the grease gun in the
WSM or instruction manual. If you keep pumping until the grease oozes
out not only the seals will fail but very likely the bearings as well.
Best to use sealed for life bearings.
On the other hand the bearing on the vane side does not really need a
seal to keep out the dirt, excess of grease may exit through the leak
hole in the pump housing. This obviously would not be my preferred
solution though.
If I remember correctly the water pump on my Triumph Spitfire did not
have a proper seal at the pulley side either, just a dust shield plus a
load of old grease to keep the dirt out.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
Michael Salter schreef op 6-3-2015 om 23:42:
> With all due respect Kees,
> Believe me replacing the bearing(s) and seal in a water pump of this
> type is far from as simple as you "imagine"...
> First the bearing ID and OD are such that no available ball bearing
> (required to absorb end thrust) is available.
> The original cartridge bearing uses the hardened shaft itself as the
> inner bearing race to produce a bearing small enough to fit in yet
> provide sufficient diameter for the pump shaft.
> Obviously a needle bearing would fit in but such bearings will not
> accommodate end thrust so would be useless in this application.
> The original cartridge bearings actually had a hole in the outer race
> to allow them to be lubricated in place but as is is so easy to inject
> too much grease and by so doing dislodge the end seals of the bearings
> the current practice is to make such bearings "sealed for life" such
> as in modern water pumps and alternators.
> Additionally the "seal" is not a typical "lip" oil seal. It is in fact
> a combination bellows and carbon plate style seal the carbon of which
> runs on the face of the impellor and must be capable of preventing
> cooling system pressure from forcing coolant past the seal without
> rapidly wearing away.
> As I keep saying; these components were developed over decades of
> trial and error with the hundreds of thousands of examples produced
> serving an exacting and rigorous "test bed". Anyone who thinks that
> they can do better than the engineers of the day without a
> substantial investment of both money and time is dreamin"..
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 9:25 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> I would imagine that if you have access to a lathe it should not
> be to difficult to make up a shaft that will fit a sealed
> needle/roller bearing (pulley side) and a ball bearing (vane side)
> if both vane and pulley are in serviceable condition. The seal is
> not really difficult to replace even when the outside diameter is
> a bit smaller one can always fit a thin wall bush.
> You can even fit a grease nipple in the pump housing between the
> two bearings but you have to remove the bearing seals on the
> inside. I did so on a water pump of a daily driver Jensen Healey
> in the late 70's. The internal diameter of the needle bearing ring
> was slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the pulley so I
> had to make an extra bush to press on the shaft on which I could
> press the pulley, but it all worked well and lasted until the car
> was taken of the road about 60.000mls later.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Alex schreef op 6-3-2015 om 0:00:
>> *My original 1967 Healey 3000 had a grease nipple on the pump.*
>> **
>> *== Alex in Maine
>> /"The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
>> "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
>> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
>> 1965 MG Midget �(�¿�)�
>> //http://ai2q.org//*
>> *//*
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 05, 2015 5:13 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Water Pump
>>
>> Michael,
>>
>> When I purchased my 1966 BJ8 it came with an extra water pump
>> that I was told was an original pump that had been rebuilt,
>> I assume your rebuild kits are for an original pump but I am
>> not sure how to tell an original 1966 BJ8 pump. The extra
>> pump I have is cast iron but does not have the opening that
>> shows the copper wire bearing retainer. The only number on
>> the pump is by the outlet and is 170836. Any help identifying
>> an original would be appreciated. Thanks for your time !!
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Michael Salter
>>
>> Hi Fred,
>> The Massey-Ferguson engine is a derivation of the TR4 wet
>> sleeve 4 cylinder; or perhaps the other way around :-).
>> From memory the seal is the same as the later BJ7/8 pump
>> but as I recall although the bearing shaft is the same
>> length and diameter and the OD of the outer is the same
>> the overall length of the outer is shorter and the races
>> are closer together. I have a box of them somewhere back
>> in Canada.
>> I think that is the bearing that has been used in the
>> currently available repro pump..
>> I would imagine that it could be used made to work in an
>> original BJ7/8 pump but it is not designed for that
>> application and the loads on the bearings would be
>> substantially increased as a result of the races being
>> closer together.
>>
>> Michael S
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 1:13 AM, Fred Wescoe
>>
>> Years ago, a water pump builder rebuilt my BJ7 water
>> pump and said the internals were the same as a Massey
>> Ferguson tractor.
>>
>> Fred
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 12:37 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
>>
>> I understand that most of the Brits of the era
>> shared some parts with tractors, Triumph
>> especially. For that reason it's possible to
>> cross reference water pump repair kits in some
>> instances and source them from Tractor Supply
>> stores. It would be interesting to know if this
>> is true for the Austin 4s and 6s.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> From: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2015 09:18:24 -0800
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump
>>
>> Some parts, like the impeller seal, are hard to
>> get if you can find them at all.
>>
>> *From:*Healeys
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
>> Behalf Of *Adventure Limousine
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 2, 2015 6:16 AM
>> *To:* Magnus Karlsson
>> *Cc:* Healey Lista
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Water Pump
>>
>> With all of this talk about water pump quality,
>> has anyone considered rebuilding the original
>> pump with new bearings and seals? Just throwing
>> some gas on this fire.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> --
>> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an
>> electrical problem./
>>
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>> Cell: (502) 599-2696 <tel:%28502%29%20599-2696>
>>
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<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Michael, <br>
<br>
I am well aware how a water pump is constructed and that one needs
at least one ball bearing to absorb thrust. This should be on the
vane side as that is the bearing with the lesser load and where
there is no bending force on the shaft. I fitted the needle
bearing on the pulley side as that is where the higher load and
bending force from the belt tension is. <br>
To be able to fit a ball bearing one has to reduce the diameter of
the shaft where the bearing is seated and press fit a bush on the
shaft which will also fit the vane after the bearing is fitted.
This what I did on the first JH pump I rebuilt about 35 yrs ago as
I did not have the resources for a new pump. I expect an AH water
pump is not that much different in construction.<br>
I did not say it is a simple job but if you know how to work on a
lathe it is not overly difficult. And if one does not have a
suitable alternative of decent quality one should use a bit of
ingenuity. <br>
The carbon seal against the sealing face of the vane is available
in a variety of sizes. If one cannot get the exact size you can
make up a bush/sleeve or enlarge the diameter in the pump house
for the depth of the seal. It is imperative that you decide on the
dimensions and that you have all the parts needed before you
start.<br>
On my JH I would now use a water pump bearing and seal from an old
slant 4 Vauxhall. It is an exact fit except for the length. After
all is fitted I have to shorten the shaft at the pulley end, no
problem and NOS Vauxhall pumps for extracting the needed parts are
dirt cheap and plentyfull available. I rebuild quite a number of
JH/Lotus water pumps this way.<br>
I am surprised that no usable alternative has been found for the
AH pumps. I cannot imagine that there is no way of getting around
the problem. A slightly different outside diameter can be
addressed to in a rebuild by fitting a sleeve or reaming the
housing and the same goes for the shaft diameter/vane/pulley.<br>
As for lubricating the bearings of a water pump, there is often
some mentioning about a certain amount of strokes of the grease
gun in the WSM or instruction manual. If you keep pumping until
the grease oozes out not only the seals will fail but very likely
the bearings as well. Best to use sealed for life bearings.<br>
On the other hand the bearing on the vane side does not really
need a seal to keep out the dirt, excess of grease may exit
through the leak hole in the pump housing. This obviously would
not be my preferred solution though.<br>
If I remember correctly the water pump on my Triumph Spitfire did
not have a proper seal at the pulley side either, just a dust
shield plus a load of old grease to keep the dirt out.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
NL<br>
<br>
Michael Salter schreef op 6-3-2015 om 23:42:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+NFkQ+WbKNVUe9aJ=rTmRDH-16BLaXmj-XPsPNBGVyfg@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">With all due respect Kees,<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Believe me replacing the bearing(s)
and seal in a water pump of this type is far from as simple as
you "imagine"...<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">First the bearing ID and OD are such
that no available ball bearing (required to absorb end thrust)
is available. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">The original cartridge bearing uses
the hardened shaft itself as the inner bearing race to produce
a bearing small enough to fit in yet provide sufficient
diameter for the pump shaft.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Obviously a needle bearing would fit
in but such bearings will not accommodate end thrust so would
be useless in this application. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">The original cartridge bearings
actually had a hole in the outer race to allow them to be
lubricated in place but as is is so easy to inject too much
grease and by so doing dislodge the end seals of the bearings
the current practice is to make such bearings "sealed for
life" such as in modern water pumps and alternators.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Additionally the "seal" is not a
typical "lip" oil seal. It is in fact a combination bellows
and carbon plate style seal the carbon of which runs on the
face of the impellor and must be capable of preventing cooling
system pressure from forcing coolant past the seal without
rapidly wearing away.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">As I keep saying; these components
were developed over decades of trial and error with the
hundreds of thousands of examples produced serving an exacting
and rigorous "test bed". Anyone who thinks that they can do
better than the engineers of the day without a substantial
investment of both money and time is dreamin".. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174 <br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 9:25 PM,
Oudesluys <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"
target="_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>I would imagine that if you have access to a lathe it
should not be to difficult to make up a shaft that will
fit a sealed needle/roller bearing (pulley side) and a
ball bearing (vane side) if both vane and pulley are in
serviceable condition. The seal is not really difficult
to replace even when the outside diameter is a bit
smaller one can always fit a thin wall bush.<br>
You can even fit a grease nipple in the pump housing
between the two bearings but you have to remove the
bearing seals on the inside. I did so on a water pump of
a daily driver Jensen Healey in the late 70's. The
internal diameter of the needle bearing ring was
slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the
pulley so I had to make an extra bush to press on the
shaft on which I could press the pulley, but it all
worked well and lasted until the car was taken of the
road about 60.000mls later.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Alex schreef op 6-3-2015 om 0:00:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div class="h5">
<div><strong>My original 1967 Healey 3000 had a
grease nipple on the pump.</strong></div>
<div><strong></strong>Â </div>
<div><strong>== Alex in Maine<br>
    <em>"The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey
3000 BT7<br>
    "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321<br>
    Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H
BJ8, <br>
    1965 MG Midget  �(�¿�)�<br>
    </em><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://ai2q.org/"
target="_blank"><em>http://ai2q.org/</em></a></strong></div>
<div><strong><em></em></strong>Â </div>
<blockquote dir="ltr">
<div>----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div><b>From:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
title="johnbahesr@gmail.com"
href="mailto:johnbahesr@gmail.com"
target="_blank">JOHN BAHE SR</a> </div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
title="michaelsalter@gmail.com"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"
target="_blank">Michael Salter</a> </div>
<div><b>Cc:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
title="healeys@autox.team.net"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank">healeys</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, March 05, 2015 5:13 PM</div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Water Pump</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Michael,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>When I purchased my 1966 BJ8 it came with
an extra water pump that I was told was an
original pump that had been rebuilt, I assume
your rebuild kits are for an original pump but
I am not sure how to tell an original 1966 BJ8
pump. The extra pump I have is cast iron but
does not have the opening that shows the
copper wire bearing retainer. The only number
on the pump is by the outlet and is 170836.Â
Any help identifying an original would be
appreciated. Thanks for your time !!</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>John</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at
4:54 PM, Michael Salter <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"
target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">Hi Fred,<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">The
Massey-Ferguson engine is a derivation
of the TR4 wet sleeve 4 cylinder; or
perhaps the other way around :-).<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">From memory the
seal is the same as the later BJ7/8 pump
but as I recall although the bearing
shaft is the same length and diameter
and the OD of the outer is the same the
overall length of the outer is shorter
and the races are closer together. I
have a box of them somewhere back in
Canada.<br>
I think that is the bearing that has
been used in the currently available
repro pump..<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">I would imagine
that it could be used made to work inÂ
an original BJ7/8 pump but it is not
designed for that application and the
loads on the bearings would be
substantially increased as a result of
the races being closer together.<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 1:13 AM,
Fred Wescoe <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com"
target="_blank">fredwescoe@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
</div>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Years ago, a water pump
builder rebuilt my BJ7 water
pump and said the internals
were the same as a Massey
Ferguson tractor.<br>
<br>
</div>
Fred<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at
12:37 AM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:ynotink@msn.com" target="_blank">ynotink@msn.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
</div>
</div>
<blockquote
class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">I
understand that most
of the Brits of the
era shared some
parts with tractors,
Triumph especially.
For that reason it's
possible to cross
reference water pump
repair kits in some
instances and source
them from Tractor
Supply stores. It
would be interesting
to know if this is
true for the Austin
4s and 6s.<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
<hr> From: <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net"
target="_blank">jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net</a><br>
To: <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Date: Mon, 2 Mar
2015 09:18:24
-0800<span><br>
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Water
Pump<br>
<br>
</span>
<div>
<p><span>Some
parts, like
the impeller
seal, are hard
to get if you
can find them
at all.</span></p>
<p><span></span>Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p><b><span>From:</span></b><span>
Healeys
[mailto:<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf
Of </b>Adventure
Limousine<br>
<b>Sent:</b>
Monday, March
2, 2015 6:16
AM<br>
<b>To:</b>
Magnus
Karlsson<span><br>
<b>Cc:</b>
Healey Lista<br>
<b>Subject:</b>
Re: [Healeys]
Water
Pump</span></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p><span>With
all of this
talk about
water pump
quality, has
anyone
considered
rebuilding the
original pump
with new
bearings and
seals? Just
throwing some
gas on this
fire.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p><span></span>Â </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<span><br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you
can't fix it with a hammer,
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<div>John A Bahe Sr.</div>
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<div>Cell:Â <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="tel:%28502%29%20599-2696"
value="+15025992696" target="_blank">(502)
599-2696</a></div>
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<p> </p>
<hr>
<p>No virus found in this message.<br>
Checked by AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com"
target="_blank">www.avg.com</a><br>
Version: 2015.0.5751 / Virus Database: 4299/9234
- Release Date: 03/05/15</p>
</blockquote>
<br>
<fieldset></fieldset>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<pre><div><div
class="h5">_______________________________________________
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target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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target="_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a>
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target="_blank">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys"
target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a></div></div>
</pre>
<br>
<fieldset></fieldset>
<br>
<p><span class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com"
target="_blank">www.avg.com</a><br>
</span> Versie: 2015.0.5751 / Virusdatabase: 4299/9235
- datum van uitgifte: 03/05/15</p>
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</div>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you've got an electrical problem.</span></i><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a><br>
Versie: 2015.0.5751 / Virusdatabase: 4299/9243 - datum van
uitgifte: 03/07/15</p>
</blockquote>
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