Yes Fred,
I believe Earl is on the right track. The symptoms you describe fit fuel
starvation perfectly.
If you drive the car as fast as it will go before the engine starts missing
for a few seconds, then shut the engine off (and with it the fuel pump) and
coast to a stop there are 2 things to check.
First remove a plug and check its colour. It will probably be very white
not brown or black.
Then take off the float chamber caps and check the fuel level in the float
chambers. The floats of one or perhaps both carbs will most likely not even
be floating i.e. you will not be able to push them down into the fuel.
These are both good checks for fuel delivery.
Once you have confirmed the cause of the problem you can start looking for
the fault that is causing it.
Michael S
BN1 #174
On Sat, Jun 28, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Fred:
>
> What carbs - HS6's?. How did you check the fuel flow? I assume
> disconnecting the fuel pipe at the front carb and running the fuel pump
> momentarily with the disconnected hose emptying into a suitable container.
>
> Let me know and I might have some suggestions for you.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Fred Wescoe
> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2014 10:44 AM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Tuning
>
>
> I have driven my BJ7 several times this week. Each time I drove the car,
> there was a noticeable lack of power.
>
> The car slows down when climbing long hills and will not accelerate at all
> up them. On flat sections, I could not get the car to accelerate at
> anything more than a modest amount in fourth gear. It was somewhat better
> in second and third. If I engage overdrive, the car will cruise OK on the
> flats but drop out of overdrive instantly when climbing a hill or pressing
> the accelerator.
>
> I have checked everything (I think). New plugs, cap, rotor and wires are
> OK. Valves are set properly, timing is right on and advances when the
> engine RPM goes up, no wobble in the shaft. I have a Pertronics replacing
> the points and have had it installed for years with no problems. Carbs
> seem to be adjusted properly with an air flow meter. Chokes are not stuck
> open. Fuel pump and fuel flow is great. The battery is in good shape
> fully charged and the alternator is charging just fine.
>
> I am using the highest octane ethanol pump gas (93) and I know that has
> some impact on drive-ability.
>
> I have looked on line and am considering an emissions tester. Moss sells
> an O2 sensor called the Exhaust Gas Analyzer but it measures only O2. Moss
> also sells a Wide Band O2 Sensor Controller (I am not quite sure of the
> differences) that requires an oxygen sensor to be installed. Is one better
> than the other?
>
> For those who have used one of these devices, or something similar, what do
> they really do and can I get the car set up properly with either of them?
> Is there an alternative that I should consider before considering either of
> these options? Will these types of devices allow the proper air/fuel
> mixture to be accurately set.
>
> Any information and guidance in this arena would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Fred
> 63BJ7
>
>
>
>
> LC-1 Wide Band O2 Sensor, Controller & Gauge by Innovate Motorsports
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