Gentlemen,
please be very careful when backflushing the engine! I did this,
disconnecting my brain from the working parts of my body (!), and was
wondering why the cockpit was full of water puddles. I busted the heater
core :-((
Please note that normally the domestic water pressure is too much for the
heater core...you should not use water pressure above 1 bar. My pressure
gauge in the basement showed 4,5 bar! Way too much for a heater core to
survive..
Thomas Willig
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Steve B. Gerow [mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 12. Juni 2013 19:57
An: Chris Dimmock
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Chris,
You must be changing your coolant often enough for the pH to not get too
low.
I experienced more corrosion in the last couple of years with water wetter
and purified water compared to the previous 8 years with coolant/purified
water which was essentially nil. There were enough flakes of rust clogging
the radiator tubes to make the car run noticeably hotter.
While the rad was out for service, I did a back flush of the block with
water in through the lower water pump hose attachment and put a woman's
stocking on the upper hose fitting as a filter. 2 or 3 tablespoons of crud
showed up in the stocking along with some more rust bits.
There's a lot of info online in various hotrod forums on how water wetter is
no longer being developed; it can result in a peanut-butter-like goo in the
coolant; the chemist who developed it no longer works for Redline, etc.
These same folks prefer Royal Purple Ice instead of water wetter because it
is evidently a more modern formulation. I was all set to add that to my
coolant except it would have required 2 bottles at $15 each so I said the
hell with that and just went to the coolant/tap water mix with an Australian
Tefba coolant filter for good measure.
--
Steve
Chris Dimmock wrote:
>
>
> I've been running tap water and Redline waterwetter in my BJ8 for the
past
> 15 years. No issues. Changed it a few times, and my block & head were
> redistripped when the engine was built.
>
>
> From the redline website....
>
>
> "Red Line WaterWetter. is designed to provide improved metal wetting and
> excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol
> coolant.
> ..... Red Line WaterWetter. will provide the proper corrosion inhibition
> for all common cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron,
steel,
> copper, brass, and lead."
> [LINK:
>
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf]
>
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf
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