Personal experience on the master cylinder forks and clevis pins. When I did
my complete brake job two years ago (Master cylinder, reservoir, wheel
cylinders, fourway, pipes, hoses. I found that the old clevis pin was worn
as in Michael's blog. Through a stroke of genius, I checked the clutch
linkage since my head was already up there and found that the fork holes
were worn into ovals and the clevis pin almost worn through although I had
no indication of anything wrong with the clutch. Clevis pins are very cheap
and not worth being overlooked in a normal annual checkup.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
www.healey6.com
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 5:45 PM
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Hi Gary,
I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
(aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine off,
engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
completely to the floor.
The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
that compressibility.
Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of the
gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be pretty
hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
less compressibility.
BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that it
is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
Michael S
<http://here.>
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