Thanks, Dave and Kees. That took care of my question!
Lin
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 4, 2013, at 6:47 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
> The general rule is tat you replace the complete clutch when the
transmission is out, unless you know the condition to be very good. A clutch
assembly is rather cheap compared to a taking a transmission out and putting
it back in.
> Genarally the rivets that hold the ling are about 1,5-2mm below the surface
of the friction material, depending on the car. Always replace the disk if
there is/has been any oil contamination, and when the rivet are less than 1mm
below the surface, when the clutch cover has to be renewed and practically
always change the release bearing, most certainly when it is a carbon ring.
Have a look at the flywheel surface, if worn, scored or (partly) blued have
the surface ground.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 5-6-2013 0:10, Linwood Rose schreef:
>> Don't mean to hijack the post, but I have been wondering how you evaluate
a
>> clutch disc (drive plate) to determine if it can or could be reused. I am
not
>> a cheapskate, but I know nothing about when this particular disc was
>> installed. It may be just fine, don't know.
>>
>> I assume you measure the width of the friction pads but I don't know the
>> appropriate specs.
>>
>> Michael, can you or someone else advise me on this?
>>
>> Lin
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jun 4, 2013, at 5:45 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Gary,
>>> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
>>> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
>>> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
>>> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement
of
>>> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
>>> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch
depressed
>>> completely to the floor.
>>> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility
in
>>> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
>>> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to
accommodate
>>> that compressibility.
>>> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
>>> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
>>> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged
period.
>>> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
>>> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
>>> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
>>> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full
stroke
>>> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
>>> less compressibility.
>>> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder
at
>>> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
>>> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
>>> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice
I
>>> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
>>> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
>>> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
>>> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so
will
>>> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
>>> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in
premature
>>> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>>>
>>> Michael S
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