Doesn't make sense, at least according to the laws of physics I pretend to
understand.
If you didn't boil or lose coolant with a 7lb cap, it means you never reached
7lb. pressure in your cooling system. So
the 10lb cap should never open, either. The additional 3lbs pressure would
only give a few more degrees before boiling,
which doesn't appear to be an issue with your car (Law of Physics: the boiling
point of a fluid is directly related to
ambient pressure; that's why boiling cooks foods slower at higher altitude).
IOW, the cap doesn't regulate pressure in the cooling system (like a voltage
regulator)--it's there to keep your hoses,
etc. from exploding if your engine overheats.
Bob
On 3/29/2013 6:42 AM, Dan Stromquist wrote:
> Water pump issue?
>
>
>
> Hi all, about 2 months ago there was a thread indicated that the correct
> radiator cap for a BJ8 was a long neck 10 lb. cap.
>
> News to me but since a couple agreed, I ordered one to see if there would be
> a difference.
>
> I have been running a 7 lb. cap with 180 degree sleeved thermostat. With
> this setup, I've had an idle temp right at 180 degrees when warmed up.
>
> When I changed to the 10 lb. cap (with same thermostat) the BJ8 immediately
> ran 200 - 205 degrees at warm idle. Switching back to the 7 lb. cap brought
> the idle temp right back down to 180 degrees.
>
> Why would this be?
>
> Randy
>
--
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Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
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