I'd like to compare the "effective" heights of the castellated nut, the nyloc
nut and the thinner nyloc. Normally the half-height nuts are used for joints
that are loaded in shear, which the swivel is not. The spring is trying to
pull the kingpin out of the nut. A shorter nut isn't going to have the same
kind of strength as a full height nut.
Bob Haskell
-----Original Message-----
>From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
>Sent: Feb 14, 2013 10:35 AM
>To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Further to Safety Check
>
>This is a follow uo to Larry Varley's note about the nyloc nuts on
>the wishbone to frame pins.
>I've contacted the supplier of my bush/pin set in England with our
>concerns, and they responded promptly. They tell me they can get the
>original style castellated nuts, or a thinner locknut.
>
>I'm going to give the thinner locknuts a try, because I can't face
>taking the coil springs out again, to remove and drill the bolts for
>the split pins. As it is, I'm going to have to remove a few things to
>make access easier. I'm just glad I'm doing this before my final
>bolting up of the body panels.
>
>Mike Salter mentioned using thinner locknuts...did that fix the problem, Mike?
>
>Stephen, BJ8
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Bob Haskell
'60 AH3000 BT7 (big project)
'62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project)
'64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition)
'68 BMW 1600 (first car - project)
'80 MBG LE (running?)
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