Note:-
An interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
bleeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
finished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
Works for me.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net]
Sent: 23 October 2012 13:38
To: Simon Lachlan
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
re: "... tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the
pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before re-opening it ..."
That's how I was taught to do it. Also, don't open the bleeder until
there's pressure on the pedal (the other half of the equation).
Since I usually don't have help, I made my own pressure bleeder by affixing
a Shrader valve to a reservoir cap. About 10psi on the valve seems about
right; since there's always pressure on the system I think you're less
inclined to draw in any air.
Bob
On 10/23/2012 12:48 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> "If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is possible that air is being drawn in past the
> bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the
> end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to return
> fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the
> last pedal application."
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