re: "... tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the
pedal and allow the pedal to return fully
before re-opening it ..."
That's how I was taught to do it. Also, don't open the bleeder until there's
pressure on the pedal (the other half of
the equation).
Since I usually don't have help, I made my own pressure bleeder by affixing a
Shrader valve to a reservoir cap. About
10psi on the valve seems about right; since there's always pressure on the
system I think you're less inclined to draw
in any air.
Bob
On 10/23/2012 12:48 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> "If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder
> screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each
> downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before
> re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal
> application."
>
> I have not been following this thread so forgive me if you've got past this
> being a possibility. However, I can never get a 100% firm pedal unless I
> follow the advice above which is in my BMC manual. The paragraph is not in
> my manual AKD 1179D which I have on my laptop but was a subsequent addition
> to later manuals such as the printed version which I keep in my
> garage/workshop. One might infer that BMC realized that there was a definite
> tendency for a little air to be drawn back in when the pedal stops
> moving/reaches bottom. Hence the further advice. (The threads can only have
> become more worn with the passage of time).
> I also suspect that a lot of our experts do this as a matter of course, so
> much so that they may fail to mention it as being something to look out for.
> I, on the other hand, hate bleeding brakes & always find it an ordeal so
> have to be reasonably sure to get it right first time.
> Anyhow, I'm sure you'll get it fixed in the end.
> Simon
>
>
>
--
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Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
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