All:
Good points Michael. I can't remember exactly when the change occurred, but
I believe that the earlier cars did not use the rubber o-ring, so the spacer
protrusion and the paper gasket sealing procedure is much more critical. On
the later cars, presuming that everything else is well, the correct o-ring
seems to do the job.
Speaking of which, at some point in the past when fighting with axle leak
problems with one or another of my Healeys, I discovered that the new
o-rings being supplied were a bit small in section to get properly squeezed
between the hub and the axle flange. I remember going to a bearing supply
house and getting what I thought would be a better sealing o-ring - notably
larger in section (but not large enough to distort). I'm pretty sure I
recall that they were metric in size. They have worked perfectly for me
(and others) ever since. I have no idea what is being supplied by the usual
suppliers at this time.
Since the o-rings worked well, the paper gaskets become basically a dust
seal. I install them dry, mainly to maintain the spacing that was designed
in. I know of others who simply omit them.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 6:18 PM
To: Williams, Allen
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut
Hi Allen,
As far as I am aware no torque is specified for the nut in question.
I too have experienced problems with oil leaking into the rear brakes and
only resolved this after taking particular care to ensure that the mating
faces of the hub and axle were completely flat and that the protrusion of
the spacer was no more than the 0.001 - 0.004 inches above a compressed
gasket as specified in the manual.
Because the paper gasket used is very thin the slightest distortion of the
mating faces will cause leakage which I believe is amplified by centrifugal
force when the hub is spinning.
I only eliminated the problems by mounting the axle shaft between centers
on a lather and making a truing cut on the face of the axle and then truing
up the face of the hub with emery paper on a glass surface after the studs
were removed.
--
Michael Salter
Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Williams, Allen <awill at ccs.ua.edu> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that
> holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've
> replaced
> the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I
> won't
> ruin another set of brake shoes.
> I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the
> list.
> Thanks in advance
> Allen Williams
> BJ7
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