I use Grade 8 flatwashers under the heads of the bolts, and lockwashers and
blue Locktite on/under the nuts.
I believe if you put lockwashers under the heads of the bolts they dig into the
soft metal of the shock bodies and eventually lose tension. The Grade 8
flatwasher spreads the bolt tension so you have greater clamping surface hence
greater overall clamping force.
I've done this for years on the front shocks--no nuts or lockwashers, of
course, just Locktite--and never had to tighten them. Ditto on the rears,
except for one time I didn't use lockwashers on the backside and the bolts
eventually loosened.
bs
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
G'day Mark
It's one of those things that you learn from experience.
Bloody tight for the shock mountings and not so bloody tight for the links.
That's what mine are and they haven't budged for 25 years unless I wanted
them undone.
Hoo Roo
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Listers,
Happy New Year!
In the last year or two my rear shocks have taken to loosening at the
mounting bolts. The result is a heavy thud on encountering certain
road conditions. Tightening up the four bolts mounting the two shocks
and all is well until they loosen again. I have decided to replace
the original mounting hardware with Grade 8 bolts, lock washers and
Nyloc nuts. Is there a recommended torque to be used on these bolts
and nuts? While I am pursuing this chore I am also going to replace
the shock links on both sides. The original links are losing their
bushings. I ask the same question regarding the torque settings for
the two threaded link ends on each link and the nuts involved in this
assembly. And, before anybody mentions it, I will check the bolt
holes for egg-shaped damage. Thanks
Marks 3
'66 BJ8
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