Bill, At the risk of not reading others first, my 10 cents would be it depends
on the zinc additive in the oil. If it is a modern formaula for a modern
engine as you suggest, then I would be wary of the necessary zinc content
necessary for the old lumps. Advice - stay with the correct period blended
stuff - I use VR1 20/50 Racing where the zinc additive is clearly readable on
the can.
Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] OH NO!, Not OIL again!
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 12:04 PM
> At the risk of causing wails of
> despair and anger I am writing on this topic,
> which I recognize has been beaten to death and should
> probably be allowed to
> rest in peace. However, being a little behind the curve I
> have a question for
> any of our oil gurus who may not yet have escaped to a
> higher plane of
> enlightenment:
> I was walking through my local Pep Boys today, looking for
> some of the Rotella
> SAE 40 I have been using because it is rated at SL on the
> API scale, when I
> happened to see a display of Castrol 4T (4 cycle)
> motorcycle oil in 10W-40 and
> 20W-50 and rated at SG/SH. It is priced at $15.99 per 4
> liter bottle (less
> than $4.00 per quart).
> My question: Is there any reason this oil can't be used in
> an LBC engine? I'm
> trying to think of any reason that such an oil, which is
> formulated for the
> higher demands of small, high capacity, high revving
> engines would be
> detrimental to the life of my old lightly loaded 2660 cc
> lump. Any comments
> will be appreciated (well almost any...)
> Bill Lawrence
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