Thanks Bob,
The pan bolts were just a little more than hand tightened and the seal
wasn't leaking. Bad news is the box shaped "Oil strainer" is really
hammered, the screens have torn and the bottom is loose. Who knows
how long that thing has been rattling around in there. Do I really
need the thing? Do I have to find a replacement, there isn't much
left to braze back together again. Looks like the same hammer
mechanic that worked the pan over did his magic on this as well. I was
wondering if I could just leave this thing off, I haven't used chunky
oil for 8 years.
Thanks for the information on re-torquing the bolts, the gasket is
regular gasket material, not cork. The bolts are 1/4" fine (1/16"
heads). I need to figure out what to do with the oil strainer before I
get to bolt it back up.
Rob
On Jul 14, 2009, at 9:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Generally, unless a specific pattern is known, torque from the inner
> to the outer, alternating sides, in two or three steps (e.g. if the
> final torque is 25ft-lbs, torque all in sequence to 15 or 20ft-lbs,
> then final torque to 25).
>
> The torque will depend on the type and size of bolt; e.g. 3/8" fine
> should be torqued to about 30-35ft-lbs (somewhat less if you oil the
> bolts). I think the bolts on the pan are smaller, so figure out
> what size bolt you have and look up the setting in a torque table
> (google 'torque table').
>
> If you're going to use a cork gasket, I like to 'glue' one side in
> place with 3M yellow snot, then put a small bead of blue RTV on the
> other (this works well for me for valve cover gaskets). If you're
> going to go gasketless, I like 'Right Stuff' (expensive, but since
> you probably just spent north of $400 on the Al pan ...).
>
>
>
> bs
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