Neglected to add that if you do use a cork gasket, you probably can't torque to
the recommended setting for the bolt--you'll just squash the gasket. In this
case, torque in sequence 'to feel' (e.g. 'snug').
bs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "robert westcott" <55healey@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:01:58 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Healeys] new oil pan
Generally, unless a specific pattern is known, torque from the inner to the
outer, alternating sides, in two or three steps (e.g. if the final torque is
25ft-lbs, torque all in sequence to 15 or 20ft-lbs, then final torque to 25).
The torque will depend on the type and size of bolt; e.g. 3/8" fine should be
torqued to about 30-35ft-lbs (somewhat less if you oil the bolts). I think the
bolts on the pan are smaller, so figure out what size bolt you have and look up
the setting in a torque table (google 'torque table').
If you're going to use a cork gasket, I like to 'glue' one side in place with
3M yellow snot, then put a small bead of blue RTV on the other (this works well
for me for valve cover gaskets). If you're going to go gasketless, I like
'Right Stuff' (expensive, but since you probably just spent north of $400 on
the Al pan ...).
bs
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert westcott" <55healey@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 8:49:40 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan
I am just ready to install a new aluminum oil pan on the 100. I
wonder if there is a sequence for tightening the bolts and what I
should torque them too.
Any opinions on gasket sealer?
Thanks,
Rob
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