Ron -
You have to be thankful it didn't send a blade through the shroud or
bonnet - I've seen pictures of that before!
The metal fans that BCS sells are probably your best bet for cooling.
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 12:33 PM, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> After taking a closer look at my fan today when I got home from San Diego, I
> can see that the blade broke at the point where the spoke on the center hub
> starts to twist. This is below the spot where the thin blade is riveted to
> the hub spoke. The thickest part of the metal fan where there are no rivets
> or other obvious reasons for the metal to fail. I'll try to post some
> photos later. When going through my restoration this fan was stripped of
> all paint and I examined it carefully for any obvious cracks. I did not
> have it checked by a machine shop but it certainly looked like it was in
> good condition before I repainted it.
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 6:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Radiator Fan
>
>
>> Sorry Ron, I have switched to the Texas Cooler but haven't experienced a
>> high
>> heat issue yet , since install, to comment.
>>
>> However I did have a question on the same topic.
>> This fan issue has come up before but I don't recall any mention of
>> preventative maintenance that can be taken to prevent a blade from flying.
>> Has anyone
>> tried adding a couple of pop rivets, J B weld or even a couple of spot
>> welds to the fan blades to keep them in place without throwing the fans
>> off balance.
>>
>> I assume this would have to be done evenly on all of the blades.
>>
>> This "flying blade syndrome" puts a whole new meaning to the checking
>> under the hood
>> routine.
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