Hi
De adjust the front brakes so the wheel cylinders are fully compressed
by the return springs. No need to do this on the rear. Attach a piece of
clear tubing the cylinder furtherest ( yes thats a word ) from the
master cylinder. This tube should be a couple of Metres long ( 6 feet,
why isn't the whole world metric) suspend this tube over a step ladder
or something, so it is higher than the car, open the bleed screw 1/4
turn and pump the pedal slowly up and down, watch the tube and and the
fluid rising in it, when there are no bubbles close the bleeder. work
back to the closest cylinder to the master cylinder, then re adjust the
front brakes. this works for me every time and you can do the job on
your own, and you see any bubbles coming up through the fluid in the tube.
Cheers
Larry
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Breda O'Sullivan wrote:
> Ok Guys,
>
> I changed the brake fluid on my 100/6 recently (dot 4), and ever since I
> have had a poor pedal on first pump, followed by a better one on the second
> pump.
>
> I posted a question a few weeks back on the correct sequence for bleeding
> (start furthest away from the master cylinder) which I duly followed.
>
> No improvement.
>
> Then I noticed a leak from the back R/H drum.
>
> And found the Wheel cylinder was leaking, and the shoes were contaminated.
>
> So I put a seal kit in both rear wheel cylinders and fitted a new set of
> back shoes.
>
> And bleed the whole system again extremely well. (Definitely no air still in
> system)
>
> Same problem, please help!
>
> The fluid level in the reservoir is not decreasing, No air bubbles visible
> in the reservoir. no leaks or loss of fluid visible any where.
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