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RE: Anti-sway bar mounting

To: "'Healey Bruce'" <healeybruce@adelphia.net>, "'Healey Mail Group'"
Subject: RE: Anti-sway bar mounting
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 06:20:53 -0800
Bruce,

I cut both front caps off and replaced them with Moss replacements.

Before welding on the new parts may I suggest you put bolts (to keep the
weld splashes off the threads)in the plates and add three more tack welds to
the captured nut on the inside of the plates.

Weld the new plates on and presto.  Well... do be advised that this part of
the frame is usually a rusty spot and good welder and technique is required.
I had my welder buddy do my welding.

Let the sparks fly!!

Tracy

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-healeys@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of Healey Bruce
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:53 PM
To: Healey Mail Group
Subject: Anti-sway bar mounting

OK, I would like some thoughts and/or other opinions as to a solution to
this problem.  While replacing the anti-sway bar bushings, I discovered that

the rear bolt on the left side frame bushing strap was backed out of its
hole about half way.  I then discovered that the threads on the bolt were
rounded off.  I retapped the hole (5/16 24) and proceeded to bolt it all
back up (new bolt, of course) when, just as that back bolt was about
snug--ZIP--out it popped.  I ran the tap up the hole again, but 5/16 is not
going to hold.  So, I can see two options: (a) drill out 21/64 and re-tap
using 3/8 24, or (b) drill up through the top of the frame rail, and use a
long bolt w/ a fender washer and nut.  Thoughts?  Other options?  Given the
stresses on the bolt, I'm reluctant to use a heli-coil.

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA




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