I've seen a lot of these with the diaphragm setting a bit too tight.
Removing the 6 perimeter screws and easing the setting a hole or two seemed
to make all the difference and the pump was happy.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn@cablespeed.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 12:12 PM
Subject: Electronic Fuel Pump
> Hello List,
>
> I bought an electronic (solid state switching, no points, but ticks like
> an
> original) fuel pump from one of our major suppliers here in the US. The
> markings on the pump regarding + grounding did not match the info on the
> product sheet in the box, so I called the Tech Services Dept of the
> supplier.
> He said that they had been having problems w/ their supplier
> mis-identifying
> pumps, and would call me back. After some research and discussion, he
> told me
> to install it. I bench tested it first w/ my battery charger, and it
> would
> not pump (pulled a steady 0.8 amp and hummed), and did not install it. I
> sent
> the pump back asking that they bench test the replacement b/4 sending it,
> and
> to put a note in the box that they did that.
>
> The replacement pump has the same problem, except that it draws a steady
> 1.0
> amp and hums louder. I called, and was told that they do not do bench
> testing. Is there something I don't understand about these pumps, or am I
> a
> victim of a series of bad pumps? To check my battery charger test, I
> bench
> tested an old style pump, and It draws 2 amps and ticks.
>
> John Snyder
> 1959 BN7
> 1960 BT7
> 1961 BN7 MK2
> 1962 BT7 MK2
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