Are you sure that the rough machined end of the hub is perpendicular to the
wheels, that they are all the same and nothing moved even a little removing
the knockoffs?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 1:29 PM
Subject: Checking Camber measurement
>I recently installed the Cape offset trunnion bolt setup, which I set to
>the
> maximum negative camber.
>
> My idea for checking the camber was to compare the angle of the rear wheel
> hub--which we may take as vertical to the ground as a given--to that of
> the
> front hub. FWIW--the toe-in is within specs.
>
> I have a Protractor Level. It has a level bubble setup in a 360 degree
> rotating protractor. It can measure the angle of something against gravity
> by rotating it while watching the level bubble between the cross hairs.
>
> Google shows these available for around $20 at a place called Tesco.
>
> So what I did was, with the car on my (slanted) garage floor, remove both
> the rear and front knockoffs on one side of the car. The rear hub is
> perpendicular to the floor at 3-1/2 degrees from vertical. I then measured
> the front hub which was also 3-1/2 degrees from vertical. Rotated the car
> 180 degrees, then repeated for other side of car with same results.
>
> So, with the camber set at the max negative, the front wheels are at the
> same angle from the floor as the rear wheels. This would seem to indicate
> I
> now have zero degrees camber.
>
> If there is something wrong with my methodology, I'll gladly publish a
> retraction.
>
> What I haven't done is check the stock setup on my car.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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