I've used a copper/rawhide Thor #2 hammer for years, using only the rawhide
side. It's worked well with plenty of clout and zero damage to knockoffs.
The copper side is useful around the shop for other jobs.
Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "'R. Cobb'"
> <rcobb@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 6:48 AM
> Subject: KO Friendly
>
>
>> Posted for Robert who is having difficulty getting this to the group.
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -
>> I will be replacing the "eared" knockoffs on my BJ8.
>>
>> This mainly due to the cumulative damage to the ears caused by the
>> removal
>> and replacement of the knockoffs. A PO provided a copper-headed hammer
>> for
>> this purpose, but I'm not pleased with the peening that has resulted.
>>
>> I see that copper headed and lead headed hammers are available as well as
>> a
>> propellor-style wooden knockoff wrench and a metal offset wrench with a
>> long
>> handle. Perhaps there are other tools available for the R/R
>> of the knockoffs?
>>
>> What has your experience been? What causes the least damage while
>> ensuring
>> fully-tightened knockoffs?
>>
>> Are either of the two types of wrenches awkward to use, depending on the
>> orientation of the ears?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Robert.
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