Duh! I sent the original message to the wrong address and was wondering why I
didn't get any answers. Thanks to Gary I finally did receive some
suggestions. In addition to the tests I performed I made some additional tests
which were.
The fuel pump (wht. wire) to grd. I have 12 volts and no continuity to grd.
(good). The other test was from the fuse to the coil (wht. wire) via the
ignition switch. Have 12 volts but continuity to grd, shows 30 ohms. On
Monday I will crawl under the dash and disconnect the white wires from the
ignition switch and test them individually. Alex wrote that if you start the
engine you should see approx. 200 rpm on the Tach. I have no reading at all
which seems to suggest that there is somthing wrong with either the ignition
switch or one of the white wires coming from it which probably also has
something to do with the 30 ohm reading. There are three wires on the switch.
1 to the fuse, 2 to the coil via the tach and 3 to the ignition (red) light.
Oh, by the way, I did buy another coil. Not it. I did however notice when
performing the high tension wire to grd. test with cranking the engine, I got
a teeny, tiny spark from about 1/16" distance from ground. Clearly not
normal.
Alex, if this is it, I'll buy you a drink.
Thanks to all. Nick
Subject: '66 Healey ignition problem?
Sorry to be so chatty but I need to explain.
I think it started as an intermittent problem. The car would die and a minute
later start again. At Tahoe we thought it was a fuel delivery problem and we
replaced the fuel pump with a new one. Norm Nock at that time said that the
spark was weak.
Planing to participate on a recent outing got us to the end of the block
before the car died. After pushing it back into the driveway she started
again. A few days later I drove the car to the store and she died on me
again. I was able to restart right away but it sounded like she was not
running on all cylinders. When I jumped out and opened the bonet to check on
the fuel flow she returned to idling normal.
Since that time it won't start, period.
Statistics: Negative ground
Starter engages and turns.
I have 12 volts on the positive side of the coil
Battery (+)to grd. = 12volts
Battery (-) to grd- continuity.
I have no spark at the end of the high tension cable (distributor side) and
consequently no spark at the plugs.
Fuel flows normal
Here's what I've done so far:
Removed the Pertronics electronic ignition (1 yr. old)
Installed points
Installed new condenser
Swapped coil (the installed one was only 1 yr. old)
Distributor cap looks fine (1 yr. old)
Disconnected the wht/blk wire from the cut-off switch
Disconnected the wht/blk wire at the coil
Disconnected the wht/blk wire where it connects the two harnesses together
below the fuse box.
Disconnected both ends and ran a jumper
Replaced the high tension cable (coil to distributor)
Checked the litlle wire inside the distributor which grounds the plates.
Folks, this is all I know to do. Any suggesttions?
Nick
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
|