Jerry,
As is common there were stripped out or broken off captive nuts on the
towers. One of the two towers had been "repaired" by the previous owner
by cutting the top of the tower off , welding on nuts, then tack welding
the top back on. This arrangement was very unsafe as can bee seen from
the photos. If you look ate the 1st, 2nd and 3rd photos you will see
the old broken weld where the DPO did the repair. This weld actually
failed
and was just barley staying on.
http://www.wavewired.net/~tracy/suspension/suspension.htm
Tracy
Jerry Wall wrote:
>tracy,
>i must have missed something at the very beginning of your thread about why it
>was necessary to replace the entire shock tower. so, why ?
>jerry
>Tracy Drummond wrote:
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > Yes he did get a good bead. the drivers side (second one done) was
> > better since I had alot more removed that time. Steering column
> > and radiator etc..
> >
> > I have not had the thing to an alignment shop. Even if I did all they
> > could do is tell me I screwed up and the only adjustment would be the
> > toe in anyway. I adjusted the toe in and all else seems OK. So I think
> > I am close. I am very happy with the results.
> >
> > I considered other adjustable altrenatives but jeeze, it was good enough
> > as original for 44 years, I think it will be fine now for the next 44.
> > I am sure it will outlast me.
> >
> > I just vant to drive ze beast.
> >
> > Tracy
> >
> > Bob Spidell wrote:
> >
> > >Tracy,
> > >
> > >Was the welder able to get a good bead on the "backside" (inside) of the
> > >plate (closest to the engine bay)?
> > >
> > >bs
> > >********************************************
> > >Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> > >'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> > >********************************************
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
> > >To: "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
> > >Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 6:48 AM
> > >Subject: Re: Replacing Shock Mounting Plate
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>Ron,
> > >>
> > >>Sorry to delay but here are the pics of my shock tower replacement. I
> > >>did one side a year ago and this winter
> > >>did the whole shooting match. this stood up to some pretty agressive
> > >>driving up in Tahoe a few weeks back.
> > >>Hope the pics help.
> > >>
> > >>http://www.wavewired.net/~tracy/suspension/suspension.htm
> > >>
> > >>Tracy
> > >>
> > >>Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>I need to replace the left front shock mounting plate on my BN7 (this
>weekend
> > >>>hopefully). There was a very bad repair job many years ago which I
>discovered
> > >>>when I tried to replace the shock recently. The existing plate is a
>mess and
> > >>>I have a new plate ready to weld on. I will be doing the R&R myself but
>I
> > >>>would like to get any helpful hints on aligning the new plate. The right
> > >>>plate is in good shape so I can use it for a guide. I have Norm Nock's
>"Tech
> > >>>Talk" which has a simple diagram on page 167. The usual diagrams in the
>shop
> > >>>manuals are hard to read even after blowing them up on my copy machine.
>Does
> > >>>anyone have any helpful hints or advise (other than "take it to a
> > >>>professional")?
> > >>>Thanks in advance.
> > >>>Ron Fine
> > >>>61BN7
> >
> > *
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