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Hi PJ,
In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston,
the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better. And
the piston can be shorter with less mass.
Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder
wall. Less friction for more power and less wear.
There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we are
making enough change here to count this as a benefit.
I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you are
ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to make
them "better".
Jason
On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <mckearn2@gmail.com> wrote:
> Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?
> Thanks. P.J.
>
> On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8=
but what
>> you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons
>> Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> =EF=BB=BF
>> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and
>> nitrided, but with a stock "damper". No issues reving safely north of
>> 7,000. Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high r=
pm.
>>
>> I have Pauter rods, a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger
>> bolts. (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)
>>
>> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone
>> out of business.
>>
>> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route, consider having
>> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longe=
r
>> rods to match.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration
>>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently. I=E2=80=99m=
not sure
>>> you need billet on a GT6. Never had a bottom end failure.
>>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be
>>> torqued by stretch gauge. If you use the wrong lube on them you can
>>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask=
me
>>> how I know).
>>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - r=
easonable
>>> price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>>
>>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot@autox.team.ne=
t>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all.
>>> Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts. Also looking for
>>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons. Starting with the bott=
om
>>> end this time..
>>> Thanks . P.J.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>>>
>>>
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>>>
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>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi PJ,<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0In theory, th=
e closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston, the more stable the pis=
ton is in the bore; the rings will seal better.=C2=A0 And the piston can be=
shorter with less mass.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder=
wall.=C2=A0 Less friction for more power and less wear.=C2=A0</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div>There's also the argument of rod length to st=
roke ratio, but I doubt we are making enough change here to count this as a=
benefit.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I can't sa=
y exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you are orderin=
g custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to make them=
"better".</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div>Jason</div></div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mo=
n, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <<a href=3D"mailto:mckearn2@g=
mail.com">mckearn2@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Can you explaine the longer ro=
ds and TR6 pistons to me please?<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Thanks. P.J.</d=
iv></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_att=
r">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <<a href=3D"mailt=
o:fot@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"=
>You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 b=
ut what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons=C2=A0<di=
v>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iP=
ad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:=
41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><bl=
ockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One=
more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrid=
ed, but with a stock "damper".=C2=A0 No issues reving safely nort=
h of 7,000.=C2=A0 Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for=
high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I have Pauter=
rods,=C2=A0 a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolts.=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0(5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)=C2=A0</div><div=
dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I'm running Venolia forged pi=
stons, they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you are going the custom rods/custom =
pistons route,=C2=A0 consider having the pistons made with a shorter compre=
ssion height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"a=
uto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Sc=
ott Janzen via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bla=
nk">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,2=
04);padding-left:1ex"><div>I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nit=
rided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consis=
tently.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=C2=A0 Never ha=
d a bottom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny b=
olts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge.=C2=A0 If you use the wrong l=
ube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost abo=
ut $40 each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good =
luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will ma=
ke them any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM=
, McKearn McKearn via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"=
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br><d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div>=C2=A0Am looking for info on GT6 billet cra=
nkshafts.=C2=A0 Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pis=
tons.=C2=A0 Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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