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Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?
Thanks. P.J.
On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
wrote:
> You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 =
but what
> you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons
> Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote=
:
>
> =EF=BB=BF
> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and
> nitrided, but with a stock "damper". No issues reving safely north of
> 7,000. Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rp=
m.
>
> I have Pauter rods, a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger
> bolts. (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)
>
> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone ou=
t
> of business.
>
> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route, consider having
> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer
> rods to match.
>
> Jason
>
> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration
>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently. I=E2=80=99m =
not sure
>> you need billet on a GT6. Never had a bottom end failure.
>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be
>> torqued by stretch gauge. If you use the wrong lube on them you can
>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask =
me
>> how I know).
>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - re=
asonable
>> price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot@autox.team.net=
>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi all.
>> Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts. Also looking for
>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons. Starting with the botto=
m
>> end this time..
>> Thanks . P.J.
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me ple=
ase?<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Thanks. P.J.</div></div><br><div class=3D"g=
mail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12=
:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@au=
tox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);paddin=
g-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the =
2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and t=
hen use TR 6 pistons=C2=A0<div>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=
=3D"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <<a href=3D"mai=
lto:fot@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:=
<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One more vote for a properly prepared stock cr=
ank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper".=C2=
=A0 No issues reving safely north of 7,000.=C2=A0 Auxiliary oiling to the f=
ront main bearings is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">I have Pauter rods,=C2=A0 a little heavier than Carillo&=
#39;s, but have larger bolts.=C2=A0 =C2=A0(5/16" vs 1/4" if I rem=
ember correctly)=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I=
'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone o=
ut of business.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you a=
re going the custom rods/custom pistons route,=C2=A0 consider having the pi=
stons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods to=
match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><di=
v class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fo=
t@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></=
div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bor=
der-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"overflo=
w-wrap: break-word;">I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided,=
with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently=
.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=C2=A0 Never had a bo=
ttom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts t=
hat need to be torqued by stretch gauge.=C2=A0 If you use the wrong lube on=
them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40=
each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck w=
ith Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will make the=
m any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKe=
arn McKearn via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br><div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div>=C2=A0Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshaf=
ts.=C2=A0 Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.=
=C2=A0 Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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</blockquote></div></div></div>
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