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I did the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder conversion on my =
TR6 long ago and over the years have developed what I call the =
=E2=80=9CTriumph Tap=E2=80=9D method of braking. I give a little tap on =
the brake pedal before fully apply the brakes, which gave me a less =
travel on the pedal. It got to be such a habit that I had to learn to =
stop doing it when driving the race car because it=E2=80=99s a detriment =
when heel/toe braking.=20
Most of the pedal travel seemed to be in =E2=80=9Cwaking up=E2=80=9D the =
caliper pistons as they tended to spread a bit from some flex in the =
whole wheel/caliper/rotor system. It was more apparent when auto =
crossing as that system got flexed a lot more than normal driving. I got =
used to it and never bothered with a larger brake MC.
Bud Rolofson
Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle=20
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> On Apr 17, 2020, at 7:02 AM, Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> I looked into this a while back, did the conversion, never liked the =
extra pedal travel, I think maybe there is a 70s or 89s Jag MC with a =
slightly larger bore that works.
>=20
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
>=20
> On Fri, Apr 17, 2020, 7:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv@roadrunner.com =
> Folks,
> =20
> I=E2=80=99ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking =
system. Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel =
cylinder conversion. Braking is great but I don=E2=80=99t care for how =
far the pedal travels before engaging the brakes. I know I=E2=80=99m =
moving more fluid due to the increased size of the combined piston areas =
over the stock system.
> =20
> My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and =
larger rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder =
that is a bolt in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is =
your result?
> =20
> JVV
>=20
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>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn@gmail.com>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">I did the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder =
conversion on my TR6 long ago and over the years have developed what I =
call the =E2=80=9CTriumph Tap=E2=80=9D method of braking. I give a =
little tap on the brake pedal before fully apply the brakes, which gave =
me a less travel on the pedal. It got to be such a habit that I had to =
learn to stop doing it when driving the race car because it=E2=80=99s a =
detriment when heel/toe braking. <div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Most of the pedal travel seemed to be =
in =E2=80=9Cwaking up=E2=80=9D the caliper pistons as they tended to =
spread a bit from some flex in the whole wheel/caliper/rotor system. It =
was more apparent when auto crossing as that system got flexed a lot =
more than normal driving. I got used to it and never bothered with a =
larger brake MC.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Bud =
Rolofson<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Extreme Parts Racing (more =
than just a haircut)<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">71TR6 CC57365 =
(Good 6)<br class=3D"">71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3<br =
class=3D"">69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)<br =
class=3D"">93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle <br =
class=3D"">77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph =
Pit Bike)</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D""><br class=3D""><div><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Apr 17, 2020, at 7:02 AM, =
Greg Lemon <<a href=3D"mailto:grglmn@gmail.com" =
class=3D"">grglmn@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">I looked into this a while back, did the conversion, never =
liked the extra pedal travel, I think maybe there is a 70s or 89s Jag MC =
with a slightly larger bore that works.<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Greg Lemon</div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">TR250</div></div><br class=3D""><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Apr =
17, 2020, 7:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack <<a =
href=3D"mailto:jerryvv@roadrunner.com" =
class=3D"">jerryvv@roadrunner.com</a>> wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
<div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri;" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">Folks,</div>
<div class=3D""> </div>
<div class=3D"">I=E2=80=99ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with =
booster braking system.=20
Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder=20=
conversion. Braking is great but I don=E2=80=99t care for how far the =
pedal travels=20
before engaging the brakes. I know I=E2=80=99m moving more fluid due to =
the increased=20
size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.</div>
<div class=3D""> </div>
<div class=3D"">My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota =
caliper and larger=20
rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is =
a bolt=20
in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your =
result?</div>
<div class=3D""> </div>
<div class=3D"">JVV</div></div></div></div>
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