--===============2176303830262967985==
--00000000000031178705759dcf0b
I would add that if you buy the same brand bearing you can grind out the ID
of the old races to make it easier to remove them for test assemblies.
Bob Kramer
On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com> wrote:
> On 9/10/2018 3:41 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:
>
> I can't answer that but one could measure the dimension of the pinion head
> and subtract it from the total shown to get the depth you would want.
>
> Bob Kramer
>
>
> I suspect that there are variations in parts due to manufacturing errors,
> tolerances stacking up, etc. Most of the parts made at the time were not
> subject to the sort of scrutiny and computer-controlled measurements that
> are common today (although even that isn't a guarantee of uniformity--I had
> to redo a bunch of Toyota Supra IRS diffs in the early `80s because the
> computer that assembled them was misprogrammed and it swapped the shim
> stacks for the carrier bearings left to right).
>
> That said, the safest way to get the diff repaired properly is attention
> to the shims when disassembling, and then putting the shims back in the
> same thicknesses and checking for the proper engagement pattern. It does
> require some educated guesswork, and, often, disassembling and assembling a
> couple of times, but, if the pattern is right, the diff will be reliable.
> I'd also recommend using hard shims in place of crush spacers on the pinion
> whenever possible if the pinion originally used those. It also is a bit
> easier if one uses the case spreader judiciously on those housings
> requiring same, and doesn't crank it up too much. Spread the case just
> enough to get the carrier and bearings out. Figuring out the shim packs
> will be easier.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> distance....
>
>
--00000000000031178705759dcf0b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">I would add that if you buy the same brand bearing you can=
grind out the ID of the old races to make it easier to remove them for tes=
t assemblies.</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"><div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr=
">Bob Kramer</div></div></div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Michael Por=
ter <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:mdporter@dfn.com"; target=3D"_bl=
ank">mdporter@dfn.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1e=
x">
=20
=20
=20
<div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF">
<div class=3D"m_4645890251388782201moz-cite-prefix">On 9/10/2018 3:41 P=
M, Bob Kramer via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">I can't answer that but one could measure the
dimension of the pinion head and subtract it from the total
shown to get the depth you would want.=C2=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all">
<div>
<div class=3D"m_4645890251388782201gmail_signature" data-smartmai=
l=3D"gmail_signature">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
I suspect that there are variations in parts due to manufacturing
errors, tolerances stacking up, etc.=C2=A0 Most of the parts made at th=
e
time were not subject to the sort of scrutiny and
computer-controlled measurements that are common today (although
even that isn't a guarantee of uniformity--I had to redo a bunch of
Toyota Supra IRS diffs in the early `80s because the computer that
assembled them was misprogrammed and it swapped the shim stacks for
the carrier bearings left to right).<br>
<br>
That said, the safest way to get the diff repaired properly is
attention to the shims when disassembling, and then putting the
shims back in the same thicknesses and checking for the proper
engagement pattern.=C2=A0 It does require some educated guesswork, and,
often, disassembling and assembling a couple of times, but, if the
pattern is right, the diff will be reliable.=C2=A0 I'd also recomme=
nd
using hard shims in place of crush spacers on the pinion whenever
possible if the pinion originally used those.=C2=A0 It also is a bit
easier if one uses the case spreader judiciously on those housings
requiring same, and doesn't crank it up too much.=C2=A0 Spread the =
case
just enough to get the carrier and bearings out.=C2=A0 Figuring out the
shim packs will be easier.<br>
<br>
<br>
Cheers.=C2=A0 <br><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
<pre class=3D"m_4645890251388782201moz-signature" cols=3D"72">--=20
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking dist=
ance....</pre>
</font></span></div>
</blockquote></div><br></div>
--00000000000031178705759dcf0b--
--===============2176303830262967985==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
--===============2176303830262967985==--
|