> Not sure this made it to the FOT so I'm posting it again. I have heard
> from a few FOT that they use the steel shim, some with and some without a
> thin copper wire for added assurance. I don't see that as an alternative
> for a modified street car engine that doesn't get torn down frequently.
So,
> any others who care to provide an opinion, I'd appreciate hearing from
you.
I've been using a stock type composite (copper clad) gasket with a ring of
copper wire added around each cylinder for many years now and never had a
failure even after reusing the gasket several times. My current street
engine is relatively low compression, but I used the same thing on a
previous engine that was around 11:1 with 87mm liners. (I goofed somehow on
the CR calculation, my goal was only 10:1.) It didn't last long in that
configuration, perhaps 40 or 50,000 miles (including driving from LA to
Breckenridge for VTR 2001), but the head gasket was never a problem.
I started doing this because I found the liner tops were not parallel to the
deck surface, resulting in proper protrusion on one side but not enough on
the other. Having found this problem on two blocks in a row, I have a
suspicion that it is a relatively common problem. But the solution is so
easy and works so well that I would do it now even with the correct
protrusion on both sides.
Just 26 AWG (.016") bare copper wire, soldered to the gasket just outside of
the crimp around each cylinder. The solder is just to hold it in place
until the head nuts are tight, so could probably be done with super glue
instead (as suggested by Ken G.) but "electronic" rosin core solder is what
I used. A green Scotch-Brite pad dipped in some Tarn-x took care of the
oxide layer before soldering.
https://i.imgur.com/AXaq1t0.jpg
I'm not sure what brands the gaskets were. First one was probably Payen;
second one I think was a "no name" from TRF. I'll be tearing that engine
down in a few weeks (I hope), so if anyone wants to see an "after" photo,
let me know.
-- Randall
|
