Not only do they need to be hard, they also need a bevel on the inside edge of
the hole, and you need to make sure the bevel faces the bolt head.
Bill
> On Jun 2, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The ARP bolts that fit which are really a BMC replacement (you get 6 in a
> kit) are slightly too long so the end needs to be ground off, especially if
> you do not use a washer under the head. We didn't use washers with those -
> if you DO use a washer you want something hardened. Having the washer yield
> because it's soft is a bad thing.
>
> I'm not sure if the bolts sold by Moss are the BMC part or a slightly shorter
> one which doesn't require grinding. The main thing is to check that the
> engine still turns freely after the bolt is fully installed.
>
> Another option is to go up a size in bolt hole (from 3/8 to 7/16"), then you
> can use a Ford Flywheel ARP bolt that has a giant 12 point head - like 3/4".
> That's what I'm currently running. Probably too late for that now though.
>
> Best Regards, Tony Drews
>
> At 03:27 PM 6/2/2017, STEPHEN BOROWSKI via Fot wrote:
>> Does anyone have experience using the ARP flywheel bolts sold by Moss and
>> others?
>> I understand that you may have to shorten the bolt or it breaks the rear
>> seal???
>> Are they supposed to have a washer or not?
>>
>> Thxs. Steve
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>>
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>
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