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Thanks to everyone who contributed to my concerns about the amount of =
shims required to set up the stub axle upgrade. As a result of what you =
all have indicated (0 to over 0.030=E2=80=9D shim pack or custom spacers =
I no longer feel overly concerned with my 0.030 thickness. For those =
wondering what bearings I have they are in fact Timken. As a point of =
interest, I am using a TR2-3 RATCO frame that Tony set up to accept the =
full TR6 front suspension components to include the correct length lower =
wishbone inner fulcrum brackets. R & P steering rack is a Revington =
welded bracket unit. Front disk brakes are Toyota calipers, rear disk =
is a kit from Revington utilizing parts from early Rover (Acura). Tube =
shocks at rear with a RATCO kit and all four shocks are Spax. It=E2=80=99=
s been a fun project that I hope to have on the road within the next =
year=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6.
On Jul 29, 2015, at 10:44 AM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
> Am putting the up-rated stub axle kit on my TR2 with TR6 front =
suspension
> / disc brakes and find that I need nearly 0.030 in shim thickness to =
allow
> the disk / wheel to turn without too much effort. =20
Just a thought, what brand of wheel bearings are you using? I ran into =
a
similar problem when doing a Stag differential some years ago, the
replacement bearing, although apparently correct otherwise, was a lot
thinner than the one I took out, requiring some .030" more in shims to =
get
the correct preload.
I saw the same thing with some cheap no-name "Made in India" bearings I =
was
going to use in a TR3 diff; they weren't even the same thickness as each
other! (They went in the scrap bin.)
I'm beginning to think there is a reason that Timken bearings are more
expensive :)
BTW, RockAuto frequently has genuine Timken wheel bearings for a good =
price.
I bought a set for the TR3 just a couple of months ago, and the price =
with
shipping came to less than half what the usual suspects charge.
-- Randall
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin@mi.rr.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><font color=3D"#4f7a28" class=3D"">Thanks to everyone who =
contributed to my concerns about the amount of shims required to set up =
the stub axle upgrade. As a result of what you all have indicated =
(0 to over 0.030=E2=80=9D shim pack or custom spacers I no =
longer feel overly concerned with my 0.030 thickness. For those =
wondering what bearings I have they are in fact Timken. As a point =
of interest, I am using a TR2-3 RATCO frame that Tony set up to accept =
the full TR6 front suspension components to include the correct length =
lower wishbone inner fulcrum brackets. R & P steering rack is =
a Revington welded bracket unit. Front disk brakes are Toyota =
calipers, rear disk is a kit from Revington utilizing parts from early =
Rover (Acura). Tube shocks at rear with a RATCO kit and all four =
shocks are Spax. It=E2=80=99s been a fun project that I hope to =
have on the road within the next year=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6.</font><div =
class=3D""><font color=3D"#4f7a28" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></font></div><div class=3D""><font color=3D"#4f7a28" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></font><div><div class=3D"">On Jul 29, 2015, =
at 10:44 AM, Randall <<a href=3D"mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com"; =
class=3D"">tr3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D"">Am putting the up-rated stub axle kit on my TR2 =
with TR6 front suspension<br class=3D""></blockquote><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D"">/ disc brakes and find that I need nearly 0.030 =
in shim thickness to allow<br class=3D"">the disk / wheel to turn =
without too much effort. <br class=3D""></blockquote><br =
class=3D"">Just a thought, what brand of wheel bearings are you using? =
I ran into a<br class=3D"">similar problem when doing a Stag =
differential some years ago, the<br class=3D"">replacement bearing, =
although apparently correct otherwise, was a lot<br class=3D"">thinner =
than the one I took out, requiring some .030" more in shims to get<br =
class=3D"">the correct preload.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I saw the =
same thing with some cheap no-name "Made in India" bearings I was<br =
class=3D"">going to use in a TR3 diff; they weren't even the same =
thickness as each<br class=3D"">other! (They went in the scrap =
bin.)<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I'm beginning to think there is a =
reason that Timken bearings are more<br class=3D"">expensive :)<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">BTW, RockAuto frequently has genuine Timken =
wheel bearings for a good price.<br class=3D"">I bought a set for the =
TR3 just a couple of months ago, and the price with<br class=3D"">shipping=
came to less than half what the usual suspects charge.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">-- Randall<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">http://www.fot-racing.com<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Donate: =
http://www.team.net/forums<br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin@mi.rr.com<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=
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_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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