So that's how you guys get perfectly sealed engines. I just install them with
all the fiddle I can fettle and keep my fingers crossed.
Bob Kramer
rkramer3@austin.rr.com
---- fubog1 via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
> The split seals (series Land Rover) work as intended.
Problems are usually resultant from any one or combination of poor quality
seals, machining +/- on the 2-piece housing, and lack of concentricity between
the housing and housing bore in the block (especially if the block has been
align-bored).
The book would say "some degree of fitting may be required". It's a fussy
operation, it's easy to screw up the installation but they do work.
Also when I'm done, I fill the cavity behind the rear main with oil, with the
block inverted, to check for leaks. It's a lot better to find it on the bench
before it goes in the car
Glen
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg And Alison Blake via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
To: Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54@gmail.com>
Cc: FOT List Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>; Dan <adcronin@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 23, 2015 2:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Main Oil Seal Options
I clean followed by smearing top side with RTV. Does not leak but I may have
gotten lucky.
On Feb 21, 2015, at 8:50 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
Have you tried degreasing followed by green (penetrating grade) Loc-Tite?
Ir how about expanding the ends with a hammer and a ball bearing slightly
larger than the bore of the tube?
Duncan
(Texas)
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2015, at 2:46 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
I agree with Chris on this. Don't bother welding it, just run theseal that
fits it. I am running that crankshaft in my race TR-4 anduse the Lip Seal that
fits it. If it leaks, it doesn't leak much -I have worse leaks elsewhere so
it's a little hard to tell. Dodrill the extra holes through the rear main
parallel to the existingdrain hole to allow more oil to drain back from between
the bearing andthe seal.
That reminds me - anyone have any great tips on getting the pushrod tubesin the
head to not leak?
Cheers, Tony Drews
At 09:40 PM 2/20/2015, Dan via Fot wrote:
2/20
Good Evening All
I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and adviceconcerning a
decision I will soon need to confront.
Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy Dand have a
beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rearscroll and to the
2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the thennew and improved "Lip Seal" I
was planning on using.
Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I
havepurchased and would really like to use now that the engine is
finallygetting built.
I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the DetroitMetro
Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up(with weld)
the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine itback to match the
stock crank configuration in order to use the VitonSeal. This leads me to ask
two questions:
1)Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so anycautions or
suggestions or lessons learned?
2)Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had thescroll
machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment,or would it be
better to just use the now old "lip seal" andtighten up the carrier and lip
seal and shorten the spring a bit to tryand grip the 2.50 diameter surface a
bit closer.?
Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share(either via
the list or privately) will be most appreciated. I havea lot of cool things
going into this motor build and really do not wantto screw it up doing
something I do not fully understand.
Thanks,
Dan Cronin
adcronin@gmail.com
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