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I agree with Chris on this. Don't bother welding it, just run the
seal that fits it. I am running that crankshaft in my race TR-4 and
use the Lip Seal that fits it. If it leaks, it doesn't leak much -
I have worse leaks elsewhere so it's a little hard to tell. Do
drill the extra holes through the rear main parallel to the existing
drain hole to allow more oil to drain back from between the bearing and
the seal.<br><br>
That reminds me - anyone have any great tips on getting the pushrod tubes
in the head to not leak?<br><br>
Cheers, Tony Drews<br><br>
At 09:40 PM 2/20/2015, Dan via Fot wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font color="#38571A">2/20</font>
<br>
<font color="#38571A">Good Evening All<br>
I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and advice
concerning a decision I will soon need to confront.<br><br>
Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy D
and have a beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rear
scroll and to the 2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the then
new and improved "Lip Seal" I was planning on using.
<br><br>
Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I have
purchased and would really like to use now that the engine is finally
getting built. <br><br>
I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the Detroit
Metro Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up
(with weld) the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine it
back to match the stock crank configuration in order to use the Viton
Seal. This leads me to ask two questions:<br>
1)Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so any
cautions or suggestions or lessons learned?<br><br>
2)Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had the
scroll machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment,
or would it be better to just use the now old "lip seal" and
tighten up the carrier and lip seal and shorten the spring a bit to try
and grip the 2.50 diameter surface a bit closer.?<br><br>
Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share
(either via the list or privately) will be most appreciated. I have
a lot of cool things going into this motor build and really do not want
to screw it up doing something I do not fully understand.<br><br>
Thanks, <br>
Dan Cronin<br>
<a href="mailto:adcronin@gmail.com";>adcronin@gmail.com</a><br>
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