A key thing that has not been discussed so far is fitting the aluminum piece
to the block using the correct size mandrel so that it is accurately
centered on the crank. Joe A. sells these that are the correct size and I
think the Moss ones are now the correct size. The early ones (circa 2008)
were not the correct size and I had to turn my mandrel down to get the
correct fit. (As I recall there was an error in the Triumph Workshop Manual
dimension.) I've used Hylomar sealant on the split of the aluminum piece
with good results. I made the trapezoidal punches out of brass and hammer
them in using about a 2 lb regular hammer. When the felt starts oozing out
between the bearing block and engine block, I know I'm good.
I use the Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac with good results and do as
Tony says. Lately I've been heating it up in the microwave a bit to make it
a bit more runny so it soaks into the felt better.
Tim
1961 TR4 #317
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
riverside@southslope.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 10:35 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] rear main cap seals
I am putting together a motor and have been advised that it is
advantageous to replace the b cut up ropeb (still canbt get the
image of an elderly lady putting on panty hose out of my
mind) with squeezed in silicone sealant. Might a void form unknown
to the installer? If the rope is still best, what is the best gunkum
with which to soak it.
Thanks for the access to your experience.
art de armond
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