I use one also
On Oct 28, 2013 7:07 PM, "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.com> wrote:
> Have you tried a residual pressure valve for the rear? When i had rear
> drums
> I used a Wilwood 10 psi residual pressure valve. A RPV won't change the
> bias,
> but will keep the wheel cylinders from retracting so far, so that the rear
> brakes come in sooner. Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: steve <colordog.1@earthlink.net>
> To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Fot] Dialing in more rear brakes
> Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 14:46:22 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>
> Friends,
>
> I've recently added dual-circuit brakes with a Tilton balance bar assembly
> to
> my TR3 and I can't seem to get enough rear brakes. I'm looking for some
> advice.
>
> Here's what I have done so far:
>
> Installed balance bar with front and rear Master Cyl's 2.5" apart. The
> pushrods are parallel to each other. Both Master Cyl's were .750 I'm not
> running any residual pressure valves.
>
> The pedal felt like a brick so I switched to two .625 MC's. The pedal feel
> was much better but still, even with the adjustment to full rear, the rears
> were barely starting to drag when the fronts were biting.
>
> I switched the rear Cyl to .700 and, same thing. The rears just start to
> hook
> up when the fronts can not be turned by hand.
>
> Next, I switched the rear cyl to .750 and it feels the same. All of my
> testing is up on jackstands in the garage. I'm racing next weekend.
>
> I've played with adjusting the pushrod lengths so that the balance bar is
> parallel during full braking as illustrated in the Tilton instruction
> sheet.
>
> Overall, the brakes work well but I can't figure this one out on my own.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> ~STEVE
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